Fragrance comparison

Chapter 86 vs Shaded

Notes, accords, longevity, sillage, seasons and community ratings, side by side.

Updated 7 Nov 2026 29 ratings analysed

Chapter 86

Aíam

4.001 votes

Rank #65,488 WoodyCitrus

Full profile Similar & dupes

50%scent match

Some overlap

1 wins

Shaded

Diane Pernet

4.2128 votes

Rank #53,191 WoodyAromatic

Full profile Similar & dupes

Quick verdict

Which one should you pick?

Shaded takes 1 of 1 categories.

Chapter 86
Choose it for a woody and citrus character.
Shaded
Choose it for a woody and aromatic character. Wins on fragranxe ranking. Best in fall, evening wear.

Chapter 860/1

Shaded1/1

Ratings & consensus: Not scored
Community sentiment: Not scored
Longevity: Not scored
Sillage & projection: Not scored
Value for money: Not scored
Versatility: Not scored
Note pyramid (duration): Not scored
Fragranxe ranking: Shaded

Head-to-head breakdown

Every category side by side, with the winner called out.

Fragrance

Chapter 86Aíam

ShadedDiane Pernet

Winner

Ratings & consensus

Average rating and ownership split

4.00/ 5 · 1 votes

Have 14%Had 0%Want 86%

4.21/ 5 · 28 votes

Have 47%Had 7%Want 46%

Category winnerNot enough dataRating weighted by vote count

Community sentiment

How voters split from love to hate

0%Love

100%Like

0%Ok

0%Dislike

0%Hate

1 vote · too few to score

54%Love

29%Like

4%Ok

14%Dislike

0%Hate

28 votes

Category winnerNot enough dataMost positive mix (25+ votes)

Longevity & sillage

0–100 community performance scores

⏱ LongevityN/A

〰 SillageN/A

♥ Love / hate75

⏱ Longevity84

〰 Sillage65

♥ Love / hate80

Category winners

LongevityNo data

SillageNo data

Value for money

How fairly priced voters find it

¤ Price valueN/A

¤ Price value25

Category winnerNot enough dataBest value score

Main accords

Strength of each scent family · outlined = shared by both

woody100%

citrus90%

aromatic80%

fresh spicy70%

earthy60%

musky50%

woody100%

aromatic86%

marine72%

earthy58%

salty44%

aquatic30%

Scent match50%Some overlap · both woody, aromatic and earthy

Note pyramid (duration)

Top, heart and base, with how long each lasts when known · gold = shared

Top

GrapefruitBergamot

Heart

NeroliCedarMusk

Base

Guaiac WoodPatchouliVetiverHinoki

Notes

Sea NotesVetiverGuaiac WoodMusk

No top / heart / base split published

InformationalShared notesMusk, Guaiac Wood and Vetiver. Durations are only published for Shaded, so this is not scored.

Seasons & time of day

Relative to each fragrance's best season

No season votes yet

Spring43

Summer71

Fall100

Winter43

Day75

Night100

Category winnerNot enough dataMost year-round

Who wears it

Gender appeal votes

Not enough votes yet

Men0

Unisex100

Women0

InformationalProfile onlyAudience is not scored

Ranking & credits

Fragranxe overall rank, nose and launch

Overall rank#65,488

PerfumerNot listed

Launched—

Reviews0

Overall rank#53,191

PerfumerNot listed

Launched—

Reviews0

Category winnerShadedHigher overall rank

In a nutshell

Description & review snapshot

Chapter 86 reads as a fresh woody citrus with a clean, outdoorsy feel. Grapefruit and bergamot give it a bright opening, while neroli, cedar and musk keep the heart smooth rather than sharp. As it settles, vetiver, hinoki, guaiac wood and patchouli bring a dry, earthy woodiness. It looks best for someone who likes pol…

Reviews →

Shaded by Diane Pernet delivers a brisk, shadowy approach to the traditional aquatic genre. Released as a unisex woody aromatic blend, it avoids sugary sweetness in favour of stark sea notes, earthy vetiver, and smoky guaiac wood. The initial spray feels like cold ocean spray crashing over sun-bleached coastal timber.…

Reviews →

InformationalRead bothTaste is personal

How we score: ratings blend public fragrance ratings with Fragranxe member votes; longevity, sillage, value and sentiment are community vote scores, and season bars are relative to each fragrance's strongest season. Categories with too little data are shown but not scored. The scent match weighs accord overlap (60%) and shared notes (40%). More in the FAQ.

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Common questions

Straight answers from the data above.

Which is better, Chapter 86 or Shaded?

Shaded takes 1 of 1 categories. Chapter 86 is rated 4.00/5 from 1 votes; Shaded is rated 4.21/5 from 28 votes. Choose Chapter 86 for a woody and citrus character. Choose Shaded for a woody and aromatic character. Wins on fragranxe ranking. Best in fall, evening wear.

Do Chapter 86 and Shaded smell similar?

Some overlap: a 50% scent match on Fragranxe. Both share woody, aromatic and earthy accords. Common notes include Musk, Guaiac Wood and Vetiver.

Is Chapter 86 or Shaded better for summer or winter?

Shaded suits evening wear. Based on community season votes.

What are the notes in Chapter 86 and Shaded?

Chapter 86 has top notes of Grapefruit and Bergamot, heart notes of Neroli, Cedar and Musk, a base of Guaiac Wood, Patchouli, Vetiver and Hinoki. Shaded features Sea Notes, Vetiver, Guaiac Wood and Musk.