Skip to content
FRAGRANXE
Fragrance comparison

First vs Pretexte

Notes, accords, longevity, sillage, seasons and community ratings, side by side.

Updated 3,532 ratings analysed
Clearly different
Quick verdict

Which one should you pick?

Pretexte takes 6 of 7 categories.

  • First

    Choose it for a floral and green character. Wins on fragranxe ranking. Best in spring, daytime wear.

  • Pretexte

    Choose it for a woody and amber character. Wins on ratings & consensus, community sentiment and longevity. Best in fall, evening wear.

First1/7
Pretexte6/7
Ratings & consensus
Pretexte
Community sentiment
Pretexte
Longevity
Pretexte
Sillage & projection
Pretexte
Value for money
Pretexte
Versatility
Pretexte
Note pyramid (duration)
Not scored
Fragranxe ranking
First

Head-to-head breakdown

Every category side by side, with the winner called out.

Fragrance
FirstVan Cleef & Arpels
PretexteLanvin
Winner

Ratings & consensus

Average rating and ownership split
3.98/ 5 · 3,483 votes
Have 63%Had 37%Want 0%
4.51/ 5 · 49 votes
Have 44%Had 6%Want 50%
Category winnerPretexteRating weighted by vote count

Community sentiment

How voters split from love to hate
38%Love
41%Like
3%Ok
17%Dislike
1%Hate

3,483 votes

68%Love
29%Like
0%Ok
3%Dislike
0%Hate

34 votes

Category winnerPretexteMost positive mix (25+ votes)

Longevity & sillage

0–100 community performance scores
⏱ Longevity72
〰 Sillage64
♥ Love / hate75
⏱ Longevity79
〰 Sillage69
♥ Love / hate90
Category winners

LongevityPretexte

SillagePretexte

Value for money

How fairly priced voters find it
¤ Price value59
¤ Price value60
Category winnerPretexteBest value score

Main accords

Strength of each scent family · outlined = shared by both
floral100%
green92%
aldehydic84%
white floral77%
yellow floral69%
fresh61%
woody100%
amber92%
leather84%
animalic77%
floral69%
aldehydic61%
Scent match28%Clearly different · both floral and aldehydic

Note pyramid (duration)

Top, heart and base, with how long each lasts when known · gold = shared
Top20-30 mins
AldehydesBergamotBlack CurrantPeachMandarin OrangeRaspberry
Heart3-4 hrs
NarcissusHiacynthJasmineLily-of-the-ValleyCarnationYlang-YlangOrris RootTuberose
Base6-8+ hrs
CivetOakmossHoneyAmberMuskSandalwoodVetiverTonka Bean
Top
AldehydesNarcissusBergamot
Heart
OpoponaxRoseCarnationIrisHawthornHay
Base
CivetLeatherOakmossCastoreumTonka BeanSandalwoodPalisander RosewoodPatchouli
InformationalShared notesAldehydes, Bergamot, Narcissus and Carnation. Durations are only published for First, so this is not scored.

Seasons & time of day

Relative to each fragrance's best season
Spring100
Summer0
Fall0
Winter99
Day100
Night85
Spring20
Summer0
Fall100
Winter80
Day40
Night100
Category winnerPretexteMost year-round

Who wears it

Gender appeal votes
Men2
Unisex12
Women86
Men0
Unisex25
Women75
InformationalProfile onlyAudience is not scored

Ranking & credits

Fragranxe overall rank, nose and launch

Overall rank#955

PerfumerJean-Claude Ellena

Launched—

Reviews205

Overall rank#12,145

PerfumerAndre Fraysse

Launched—

Reviews5

Category winnerFirstHigher overall rank

In a nutshell

Description & review snapshot

First by Van Cleef & Arpels opens with a brisk, effervescent burst of aldehydes, tart bergamot, and ripe black currant that immediately calls to mind crisp, high-end French milled soap. As the initial sparkle settles, the scent unfolds into an abundant floral heart packed with spring narcissus, dewy green hyacinth, an…

Reviews →

Pretexte by Lanvin is a bold oriental floral from 1937, defined by its complex leathery and animalic character. This scent opens with bright aldehydes and narcissus, shifting into a deep, dark heart of opoponax and hay. It remains a legendary piece of vintage perfumery for those who appreciate woody, resinous composit…

Reviews →
InformationalRead bothTaste is personal

How we score: ratings blend public fragrance ratings with Fragranxe member votes; longevity, sillage, value and sentiment are community vote scores, and season bars are relative to each fragrance's strongest season. Categories with too little data are shown but not scored. The scent match weighs accord overlap (60%) and shared notes (40%). More in the FAQ.

Recent comparisons

Head-to-head activity from live history

Common questions

Straight answers from the data above.

Which is better, First or Pretexte?

Pretexte takes 6 of 7 categories. First is rated 3.98/5 from 3,483 votes; Pretexte is rated 4.51/5 from 49 votes. Choose First for a floral and green character. Wins on fragranxe ranking. Best in spring, daytime wear. Choose Pretexte for a woody and amber character. Wins on ratings & consensus, community sentiment and longevity. Best in fall, evening wear.

Which lasts longer, First or Pretexte?

Pretexte lasts longest (Pretexte 79/100, First 72/100), based on community performance votes.

Which projects more, First or Pretexte?

Pretexte projects furthest (Pretexte 69/100, First 64/100), based on community performance votes.

Do First and Pretexte smell similar?

Clearly different: a 28% scent match on Fragranxe. Both share floral and aldehydic accords. Common notes include Aldehydes, Bergamot, Narcissus and Carnation.

Is First or Pretexte better for summer or winter?

For summer, First is the stronger pick. For winter, First is the stronger pick. First suits daytime wear; Pretexte suits evening wear. Based on community season votes.

What are the notes in First and Pretexte?

First has top notes of Aldehydes, Bergamot, Black Currant and Peach, heart notes of Narcissus, Hiacynth, Jasmine and Lily-of-the-Valley, a base of Civet, Oakmoss, Honey and Amber. Pretexte has top notes of Aldehydes, Narcissus and Bergamot, heart notes of Opoponax, Rose, Carnation and Iris, a base of Civet, Leather, Oakmoss and Castoreum.

Add to comparison

Find a fragrance