Anti Anti
Built for lovers of avant-garde perfumery, Anti Anti by PMP Perfumes Mayr Plettenberg challenges standard gourmand tropes with a smoky, woody structure. Perfumers Mark Buxton and David Chieze pair raw hazelnut and red pepper against bitter cacao and dark birch tar. Designed for crisp fall evenings and winter nights, this unisex Eau de Parfum projects a confident, mysterious aura around the wearer. Rather than leaning into easy sweetness, the composition focuses on texture and contrast. Golden labdanum, osmanthus, and rough leather meet a heavy base of vetiver, oak, and sandalwood. If you want a dark winter signature that stands completely apart from mass-market trends, testing a sample of Anti Anti is an essential step.
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Performance Metrics
118 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Delivers solid longevity of seven to nine hours on skin with strong projection for the first two hours. It settles into an arm's length bubble that thrives in cold winter air.
Notes Pyramid
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A dark sensory blend featuring bitter orange, red pepper, and dry hazelnut at the top, transitioning into a smoky heart of cacao absolute, birch tar, osmanthus, and leather over a base of vetiver, cedar, oak, and labdanum.
Main Accords
8 MAPPEDThe woody and warm spicy accords dominate early on, while the cacao and nutty elements provide a dry, dark texture. Birch tar creates a persistent smoky wave that interacts dynamically with the clean cedar and earthy vetiver base.
Community Data
310 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in fall and winter. The vote picture leans most toward night.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Unique blend of non-sweet cacao, hazelnut, and smoky birch tar
Strong cold-weather performance lasting over eight hours
Crafted by renowned perfumers Mark Buxton and David Chieze
Stands out from generic sweet designer gourmands
Striking bottle design featuring white marble and gold accents
Excellent depth and evolution from citrus spice to deep woods
Great projection during crisp fall and winter evenings
Appeals strongly to niche fragrance collectors
Unisex appeal for fans of dark leather and smoke
Rich labdanum and vetiver base notes create a memorable trail
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Smoky birch tar note can feel too intense for some wearers
Not suitable for warm spring or summer temperatures
Zero gourmand sweetness despite the cacao and hazelnut notes
Too smoky and projection-heavy for quiet office spaces
Polarizing opening pair of bitter orange and red pepper
Requires sampling on skin due to complex skin chemistry changes
Metallic musk undertone may bother sensitive noses
Niche availability makes it tricky to find in physical stores
Price point of €120 for 50ml requires serious consideration
Not a safe blind buy or easy crowd-pleasing gift
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Anti Anti Review: A Bold Statement in Dark Wood and Cacao”
Anti Anti by PMP Perfumes Mayr Plettenberg opens with an unexpected pairing of bitter orange and crushed red pepper. Right behind that citrus burst, a dry, unsweetened hazelnut note pops up, giving the initial spray a dark nutty texture. It does not smell like dessert; instead, the top notes feel sharp, warm, and slightly prickly on the skin.
Within twenty minutes, the heart notes take control of the composition. Cacao absolute combines with raw birch tar and tough leather, pushing the profile into smoky territory. A subtle floral fruitiness from Chinese osmanthus tries to soften the blend, but the labdanum and tar keep the overall vibe grounded, dark, and brooding.
The accords behave with notable density throughout the mid-wear. The cacao is bitter and powdery rather than sugary, while the birch tar gives off a distinct campfire edge. On warm skin, the hazelnut occasionally re-emerges, weaving through the smoke to keep the scent from feeling overly harsh or dry.
Performance is impressive across the board. Two sprays onto the chest and wrist easily provide eight hours of solid wear during cold weather. The sillage projects roughly an arm's length for four hours before contracting into a dark, smoky skin scent that lingers until you shower.
This fragrance suits experienced collectors, avant-garde style lovers, and anyone tired of standard amber gourmands. It leans masculine in traditional terms due to the heavy woods and smoke, but anyone with a taste for dark leather perfumery can pull it off effortlessly in winter.
Anti Anti succeeds because it embraces its internal contradictions without apology. The combination of bitter orange, raw cacao, and smoky birch tar creates a memorable signature for cold nights. If you enjoy challenging woody scents, this bottle deserves a spot on your test list.
FAQs
What does Anti Anti smell like overall?+
Anti Anti smells like dark cacao, smoky birch tar, and roasted hazelnut layered over dry cedar and bitter orange. It balances sharp citrus and spice against a rich, woody resinous core that feels edgy and dark.
How does the opening contrast with the dry-down?+
The opening is bright and spicy with bitter orange, cardamom, and red pepper. Within thirty minutes, those top notes fade into smoky birch tar, dark cacao, leather, and a grounding base of vetiver and cedar wood.
How long does Anti Anti last on skin?+
Expect seven to nine hours of continuous wear on skin. The smoky birch tar, vetiver, and labdanum base notes cling even longer to cotton clothing and outerwear, easily lasting past twelve hours.
Is the sillage strong or subtle?+
The sillage is strong during the first two hours, filling your personal space with a room-filling smoky aura. It gradually settles down to a solid arm's length bubble for the remainder of the wear.
Which season suits Anti Anti best?+
Late autumn and cold winter days are ideal. The heavy cacao, smoky birch tar, and warm labdanum notes cut through crisp frost and chilly evening winds without feeling cloying.
For what occasions is this fragrance appropriate?+
It excels for casual evening outings, gallery visits, leather jacket weather, and outdoor winter events. The smoky profile is too intense and distracting for standard quiet office environments.
Is Anti Anti feminine or masculine?+
It is truly unisex for lovers of raw, dark perfumery. Men will appreciate the dry birch tar and vetiver, while women who enjoy non-sweet cacao, osmanthus, and leather will find it equally compelling.
Who is the target audience for Anti Anti?+
Niche perfume enthusiasts, fans of perfumer Mark Buxton, and lovers of dark woody scents who want an alternative to standard sweet vanilla or amber fragrances will love this composition.
Can Anti Anti be layered with other fragrances?+
Yes, it layers exceptionally well under simple vanilla or sweet amber scents. Adding a touch of vanilla softens the sharp birch tar edge and brings out the warm hazelnut and cacao facets.
Are there good alternatives or dupes for Anti Anti?+
While unique, it shares atmospheric DNA with CdG Black EDP due to birch tar, and echoes the dark spicy chocolate structure found in Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834 without the heavy patchouli.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREConsider CdG Black EDP for a similar smoky birch tar experience, or Serge Lutens Bornéo 1834 if you want a dark cacao structure with an earthy, spicy focus.
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