Anubis
Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis is built for anyone tired of sanitized department store colognes. This creation dives headfirst into ritualistic warmth. It marries rugged suede, weeping myrrh tears, and dark frankincense with an unexpected hint of aquatic lotus. Saffron gives the initial spray a fiery, medicinal edge. Soon after, golden immortelle lends a roasted, honeyed undertone that anchors the dry smoke. Wear it on cold evening walks, moody library dates, or late night fireside gatherings. It radiates brooding confidence without shouting. If you love dark leather boots and ancient temple resins, this bottle belongs on your winter vanity.
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Performance Metrics
2,864 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Longevity spans 9 to 11 hours on skin and over 48 hours on wool coats, thanks to a dense leather fragrance oil base. Projection radiates strongly for two hours at about three feet before pulling into a quiet, intimate one-foot aura that lasts through the night.
Notes Pyramid
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Anubis is a dry, resinous leather fragrance note study anchored by myrrh, olibanum perfume smoke, and velvety suede. The scent opens with a sharp flash of saffron and tarry incense before softening into an aromatic blend of immortelle flower, pink lotus, and warm golden amber.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe central tension explores leather vs suede fragrance dynamics. Smoky, phenolic tar dominates the first thirty minutes before plush suede emerges to cushion the blend. Balsamic amber and spicy herbal immortelle provide a chewy, sweet undertone that counterbalances the arid frankincense smoke throughout the drydown.
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When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in winter and spring. The vote picture leans most toward night. It makes the most sense for date nights and parties.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Uncompromising, artisanal blend of genuine smoky leather and resins
Tenacious 10-hour staying power on skin without synthetic fixatives
Deep, meditative drydown featuring sacred frankincense and myrrh
Immortelle and pink lotus provide an unexpected savory-floral nuance
Creates an intimate, sophisticated scent bubble without clearing rooms
High oil concentration delivers a luxurious tactile feel upon application
Perfect atmospheric companion for cold rainy evenings and winter frost
Truly unisex appeal with a rugged yet comforting aura
Handcrafted indie quality overseen directly by perfumer Liz Moores
Zero cloying chemical sweetness in the base notes
Develops dynamically through distinct stages over eight hours
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Aggressive petrol and smoky opening can alarm novice perfume buyers
Immortelle note can skew savory like fenugreek on warm, oily skin
Heavy resin oils may cause staining on light-colored delicate fabrics
Lacks mass-market crowd appeal and sweet vanilla compliment bait
Strictly limited to cool weather and stifles in high summer heat
Intimate projection after hour three might frustrate beast-mode seekers
Unsuitable for conservative, scent-free corporate office environments
Niche price point demands careful sampling before purchasing a bottle
High potency means accidental overspraying can induce mild headaches
Distinct medicinal edge in the first ten minutes requires patience
No citrus or fresh accords to brighten the dense amber base
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Papillon Artisan Perfumes Anubis Review: Dark Suede and Ancient Incense”
Spraying Anubis is a shock to the nervous system. The initial blast hits with an unvarnished wave of petrol, bitter saffron, and blistering wood smoke. You might cough. For the first five minutes, a potent alcohol vapor lifts intense oily resins directly off your skin. It smells medicinal, aggressive, and almost industrial. Do not wash it off yet. Give the volatile top notes time to evaporate, because this chaotic opening is merely the clearing of the stage.
Within twenty minutes, the rough edges melt away completely. A plush, supple suede note surfaces to tame the biting campfire smoke. Deep, honeyed myrrh wraps around golden immortelle, imparting a curious aroma reminiscent of maple syrup and sun-baked desert hay. You can detect pink lotus floating gently beneath the resins. It prevents the composition from collapsing under its own gravity. As the hours progress, liturgical frankincense weaves through the heart, leaving behind a tranquil, sacred trail.
Skin chemistry alters this perfume drastically. On dry skin, the bitter saffron and herbal immortelle persist, sometimes throwing off a curious savory scent like fenugreek. On warm, hydrated skin, the amber base blooms into sweet, balsamic resin and smoky black suede perfume textures. It clings close. While it possesses the density of a traditional leather fragrance, it feels far more tactile and comforting than commercial synthetic leathers.
Performance is stellar. Longevity easily reaches ten hours on bare skin, while heavy wool sweaters will trap the frankincense fixatives for three days straight. Projection is remarkably polite. After two hours of commanding presence, it recedes into a personal six-inch scent bubble. Wear this when the mercury drops below 12 degrees. In sweltering summer heat, the dense sweetness of myrrh and immortelle quickly curdles into a suffocating syrup. Save it for freezing walks or dimly lit lounges.
This is not crowd-pleasing mall juice. If you expect sweet vanilla tonka or clean citrus shower gel, Anubis will thoroughly confuse you. It was blended for independent thinkers, vintage perfume enthusiasts, and dedicated resin lovers who seek ritualistic atmosphere over casual compliments. It leans unisex with a slightly brooding, rugged edge. Anyone can pull it off with confidence and a heavy leather jacket.
Papillon has created a true landmark in indie perfumery. Anubis bridges the raw grit of smoking birch tar with the refined poise of French haute perfumery. It feels ancient, transportive, and deeply comforting once the fiery opening subsides. Sample first. If the dark smoky resins click with your chemistry, you will never want to let your bottle go.
FAQs
What does the opening of Papillon Anubis smell like?+
The opening of Anubis hits with a pungent, smoky surge of bitter saffron and medicinal frankincense. Within the first five minutes, you experience an intense solvent sharpness reminiscent of gasoline and birch tar. Once the alcohol flashes off, the harsh smoke calms into warm, aromatic spices.
How does Anubis transition during the heart and drydown on skin?+
Anubis transitions from harsh campfire smoke into plush suede, chewy myrrh, and warm immortelle over two hours. The floral touch of pink lotus provides subtle moisture, preventing the resins from feeling parched. By hour four, the scent settles into an amber skin scent glowing with meditative temple incense.
How long does Anubis last on skin compared to clothes?+
Anubis lasts between 9 and 11 hours on bare skin and over three days on fabric. The high concentration of natural resin absolutes clings stubbornly to skin lipids. On heavy wool coats or cotton shirts, the smoky frankincense and suede fixatives remain detectable until the garment is washed.
How strong is the sillage and projection bubble of Anubis?+
Anubis projects moderately for two hours within an arm length before receding into a personal six-inch bubble. It is not a room-filling beast, but rather a dense, radiant aura. People sitting directly next to you will catch rich wafts of sweet suede and smoky myrrh without feeling overwhelmed.
What season and weather conditions suit Anubis best?+
Anubis performs best during late autumn and cold winter days when temperatures hover between 0 and 12 degrees. Crisp, freezing air cuts through the heavy balsamic weight of myrrh and immortelle, highlighting the crisp suede. In summer heat above 25 degrees, the dense sweetness can quickly turn cloying.
What occasions are best suited for wearing Anubis?+
Anubis is ideal for cozy evening dates, fireside relaxation, and artistic nocturnal gatherings in cool weather. Its dark, contemplative character feels completely out of place in corporate boardrooms, formal morning weddings, or the gym. Wear it whenever you want a rugged, introspective aura.
Does Anubis lean masculine, feminine, or unisex?+
Anubis is completely unisex, appealing to anyone who appreciates dark leather jackets, dry resins, and smoky woods. While the bitter saffron and rugged suede initially suggest a traditional masculine profile, the sweet immortelle and pink lotus create a balanced, luxurious softness that wears beautifully on any gender.
How does Anubis compare to Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain?+
Anubis is oilier, darker, and more leather-focused than Tauer L'Air du Desert Marocain. While Tauer relies on airy dry cedar, cumin, and desert winds, Anubis wraps you in dense suede, smoky myrrh, and sweet immortelle. Tauer projects wider, whereas Anubis stays closer, richer, and more tactile.
Is Anubis worth the niche price tag for its concentration?+
Anubis delivers exceptional value because its high fragrance oil concentration requires only two sprays per wear. Handcrafted by independent perfumer Liz Moores in England, the bottle contains rich natural absolutes rarely found in commercial releases. A 50ml bottle will easily last through several autumn and winter seasons.
Can you layer Anubis with other fragrances?+
Anubis layers best with simple vanilla, dry sandalwood, or clean amber oils to soften its intense smokiness. Adding a drop of pure Madagascar vanilla rounds out the bitter saffron opening, while a sheer cedarwood base extends the drydown. Avoid pairing it with complex florals or sharp aquatic citruses.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREWhile nothing matches Liz Moores's specific blend, Tauer's L'Air du Desert Marocain offers a drier spicy amber alternative, and Naomi Goodsir's Cuir Velours provides a sweeter, softer suede experience.
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