Black Orris
Bahoma London Black Orris is a bold unisex fragrance blending powdery orris root with earthy patchouli and sharp leather. This moody, woody composition is perfect for those who want an introspective, long-lasting scent that moves beyond simple fruity sweetness, ideal for cool-weather wear and evening events where you want to make an impression.
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Performance Metrics
3 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
This fragrance is exceptionally long-lasting, frequently exceeding eight hours on skin. Its projection is moderate, holding at about arm's length, which makes it perfect for cool weather when you want a steady, reliable scent profile.
Notes Pyramid
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Black Orris is an earthy, powdery fragrance driven by a dominant woody accord. Its core is a dense, milky orris root, reinforced by dark, leathery patchouli and a sharp, spicy top of nutmeg and bergamot, creating a textured and animalic olfactory experience.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe woody and powdery accords are the backbone here, behaving as a thick, resinous layer that clings to the skin. The orris root feels less like a floral note and more like a heavy, granular powder mixed with leather, slowly releasing warmth throughout the day.
Community Data
20 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in spring and fall. The vote picture leans most toward daytime.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Remarkable longevity for long days
Ideal for cool autumn weather
Unique texture avoids common fruitiness
Strong patchouli and leather base
Introspective, moody scent profile
Great for formal evening events
Unisex appeal for dark scent lovers
Atmospheric rather than room-filling
Complex development over time
Distinguishable from mass-market trends
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Sharp opening can be off-putting
Cumin note might be polarizing
Lacks modern, clean floral appeal
Not suited for summer heat
Bottle design feels slightly dated
Requires multiple wears to appreciate
Hard to find for sampling
Too intense for casual settings
Not a crowd-pleaser fragrance
Dry-down can feel slightly dirty
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Bahoma London Black Orris: A Dark and Powdery Study”
The opening of Black Orris is undeniably bold. You are immediately hit with a sharp, almost aggressive burst of bergamot and lemon, quickly complicated by a heavy dose of nutmeg and cloves. It is a loud, spicy introduction that makes no attempt to be subtle, acting as a warning that this is not your typical department store floral.
As the heart emerges, the fragrance shifts significantly. The sharp citrus fades to make room for a powdery, thick orris root that feels almost milky in its texture. Hints of violet and raspberry provide a strange, fruity sweetness that clashes in an interesting, rather than purely harmonious, way with the remaining spices. This phase is moody and introspective, moving away from the bright initial energy into something much more dense.
The base notes take their time to settle, but once they do, the leather and patchouli become the dominant players. This is where the fragrance earns its name. The orris root here does not feel like the clean, cosmetic iris of some designers. Instead, it feels dark, slightly burnt, and earthy, sitting heavily against a backdrop of oakmoss and benzoin. It is a complex, almost animalic dry-down that feels deeply rooted in traditional oriental perfumery.
In terms of performance, Black Orris is a marathon runner. It easily clears eight hours on my skin, though it remains relatively close to the body after the first couple of hours of moderate projection. Because of its weight and the density of the base notes, I would strictly reserve this for cool weather. It thrives in autumn air, where the cold temperature helps to crisp up the leather and powdery facets.
Fit-wise, this is a fragrance for those who like to challenge their own tastes. It leans into a dark, slightly cynical aesthetic that pairs well with sharp, structured clothing. If you are looking for a mass-pleasing, compliment-gathering scent for the gym or office, this will likely strike you as too heavy or too weird.
Overall, Black Orris is a commendable effort for those seeking texture over elegance. It lacks the polish of a mass-market designer, but that is precisely its charm. It is a raw, unapologetic blend that demands your attention.
FAQs
What is the primary scent profile of Black Orris?+
This is a deeply woody and powdery scent, punctuated by strong white floral accords and animalic notes. It leads with a mix of bergamot and nutmeg, eventually revealing a dark, earthy heart of orris root and patchouli. It is best described as an atmospheric, textured fragrance rather than a conventional floral.
How does Black Orris change from opening to dry-down?+
The opening is a busy, sharp citrus and spice blend, featuring bergamot and cloves. As it dries, the scent softens into a milky, powdery texture dominated by orris root and leather. The final dry-down lingers as a warm, resinous mix of tonka bean and amber that feels much more grounded than the initial spray.
What is the longevity like on skin?+
Users report excellent longevity, with the scent often persisting well beyond eight hours on skin. Because of the heavy base notes like patchouli and oakmoss, it holds onto fabric even longer, making it a reliable choice for long days when you do not want to worry about reapplying your fragrance.
Is the sillage powerful?+
Sillage is moderate, projecting at about arm's length for the first two hours before settling closer to the body. It does not fill a room, which makes it a sensible choice for office settings or tight spaces where you want to smell interesting without overwhelming people in your immediate vicinity.
Which season is best for wearing Black Orris?+
The warm spicy and woody nature of this scent makes it an ideal companion for autumn and winter. The cooler air helps lift the powdery orris and leather notes, preventing them from feeling too heavy or suffocating, which might happen in the heat and humidity of a peak summer day.
Is this a formal or casual fragrance?+
Its complex, slightly dark character leans toward formal or evening wear. It works particularly well with evening attire, such as a sharp blazer or a sophisticated sweater, where its leather and patchouli base can really shine. It may feel slightly out of place with extremely casual, sporty gym wear.
Does this scent lean masculine or feminine?+
Black Orris is marketed as a unisex fragrance, and it comfortably straddles the line. The white floral and raspberry notes add a touch of softness, while the leather, patchouli, and cumin provide a grounding, rugged edge. It is a fantastic option for anyone who enjoys bold, non-traditional compositions.
Who should buy this perfume?+
This is for the experienced enthusiast who is tired of generic sweet scents and wants something with more bite. If you appreciate the earthy, iris-heavy character of niche perfumery, you will likely find the combination of orris root and animalic notes very engaging.
Can I layer this with other fragrances?+
Yes, but use caution as the patchouli and leather base is quite assertive. It works well layered with a simpler, cleaner white musk or a citrus-dominant scent to cut through the heavy, milky texture of the orris root, creating a more balanced daily wear profile.
What is a good alternative if I cannot find it?+
If you enjoy the dark, leathery, and earthy vibe of Black Orris, look into fragrances that prioritize orris root and woody notes, such as those from the Dior Homme line. They share a similar focus on powdery, grounded elegance, although they may lack the specific spice mix found here.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREIf you enjoy this vibe, consider Dior Homme for a cleaner take on iris or Tom Ford Patchouli Absolu for a darker, more focused patchouli experience.
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