CIE by Jacqueline Cochran
Designed for women who favor dry, botanical scents over syrupy modern blends, CIE by Jacqueline Cochran is a classic green chypre. The fragrance pairs bright, clean aldehydes with a woody foundation of cedar, sandalwood, and oakmoss. It performs beautifully in mild spring temperatures, making it a sophisticated choice for daytime business wear or casual outdoor weekend outings. A heart of carnation and Bulgarian rose adds a powdery, traditional touch without becoming overly sweet. If you enjoy retro fragrances that smell like damp earth and clean soap, this vintage release from 1976 is well worth hunting down for your collection.
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Performance Metrics
124 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Lasts six to eight hours on skin. It projects at arm's length for two hours before settling into a warm, mossy skin scent that survives cool spring drafts.
Notes Pyramid
Search these notesChoose where each note belongs.
A soapy, dry green chypre featuring clean aldehydes, bitter oakmoss, and a spicy carnation heart. Its texture is powdery and botanical, with a woody undertone of cedar and vetiver.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe green and aldehyde accords dominate the early stages, creating a clean, soapy aura. The dry down is ruled by earthy oakmoss and dry cedar, which feel dark and slightly ink-like on the skin.
Community Data
121 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in spring and fall. The vote picture leans most toward daytime.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Delivers a clean and soapy aldehyde opening
Features a rich, authentic oakmoss base note
Lasts six to eight hours on skin
Perfect for cool and rainy spring mornings
Provides a nostalgic look at 1970s perfumery
Avoids the heavy sweetness of modern gourmands
Transitions beautifully from soapy clean to woody dry
Great for casual wear with outdoor clothing
Spicy carnation adds unique character to the heart
Feels sophisticated and structured in professional settings
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
The soapy aldehyde opening can feel dated
Raspberry note fades almost immediately after spraying
Hard to find due to being discontinued
Polarizing to people used to sweet modern scents
May feel too bitter in high summer heat
First hour of projection can be quite sharp
Vintage bottles can suffer from top note degradation
Dry down may smell too masculine for some buyers
Sandalwood is dry rather than creamy or rich
Lack of sweetness makes it feel cold initially
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“CIE by Jacqueline Cochran: The Soapy Moss of 1976”
CIE by Jacqueline Cochran captures the shifting taste of the mid-seventies, moving away from heavy orientals toward outdoorsy, sporty chypres. The initial spray delivers a sharp, clean gust of aldehydes and cut grass. A faint raspberry note provides a brief, tart sweetness, but it is quickly swept away by the coldness of the citruses. This opening is brisk, clean, and unashamedly vintage in its execution.
As the sharp opening relaxes, the heart reveals a dense floral structure. Carnation takes the lead, offering its signature spicy, clove-adjacent warmth. This is supported by a powdery jasmine and soapy lily of the valley. The florals here do not feel sweet or wet. Instead, they have a dry, pressed-flower texture that feels classic and structured.
On the skin, the fragrance gradually sheds its soapy exterior to reveal a mossy underbelly. The transition to the base notes is slow, taking about three hours. Once there, oakmoss and vetiver dominate the composition. The oakmoss feels thick and slightly bitter, while patchouli and a touch of frankincense add an earthy, smoky depth that anchors the remaining floral traces.
In terms of wear, this performs best in cool, damp weather. The spring rain seems to activate the mossy and green elements, making the scent feel fresh rather than dated. It easily lasts seven hours, projecting moderately during the first half of the day before hugging the skin. It feels right at home with a trench coat or casual weekend wear.
For modern shoppers, CIE is a step back in time. It will not appeal to anyone looking for sweet vanilla or fruity floral scents. It is a dry, clean, and earthy composition that requires a certain appreciation for retro structure. If you enjoy bitter greens and soapy florals, this is an excellent historical reference point.
Ultimately, CIE is a sample-first fragrance for the curious vintage collector. Its heavy oakmoss base and soapy aldehyde top are remnants of a different era of perfumery. For those who love Chanel No. 19 or vintage Estee Lauder, finding a bottle of this is a rewarding journey into seventies style.
FAQs
What does CIE by Jacqueline Cochran smell like?+
The fragrance opens with soapy aldehydes, green notes, and a touch of tart raspberry. It soon develops into a powdery floral heart of carnation and Bulgarian rose, before drying down to a heavy, earthy base of oakmoss, vetiver, and cedar.
How long does CIE by Jacqueline Cochran last on the skin?+
You can expect between six to eight hours of wear. The oakmoss and cedar in the base cling well to skin, keeping the dry down noticeable even in cool spring weather.
Is CIE by Jacqueline Cochran suitable for everyday wear?+
Yes, its clean green notes and soapy aldehyde opening make it excellent for daytime wear in office settings, particularly during spring and autumn when the air is crisp.
What season is best for wearing CIE by Jacqueline Cochran?+
Spring is the prime season for this fragrance. The dampness of spring weather coaxes out the earthy vetiver and oakmoss, while the green notes match the cooling rain.
Does CIE by Jacqueline Cochran lean masculine or feminine?+
While marketed to women in 1976, the heavy oakmoss, cedar, and vetiver base gives it a dry, woody character that modern unisex fragrance fans will find very comfortable.
How strong is the sillage of CIE by Jacqueline Cochran?+
It projects at about arm's length for the first two hours. After that, it settles into a persistent skin scent that projects gently whenever your skin warms up.
Are there any modern dupes for CIE by Jacqueline Cochran?+
No direct modern clones exist, but it sits in the same family as Estee Lauder Allied Private Collection or Chanel No. 19, sharing their sharp green and mossy textures.
What is the dominant accord in CIE by Jacqueline Cochran?+
The dominant accords are woody and earthy. The oakmoss and patchouli base dominates the later hours of wear, overshadowing the initial bright aldehyde and raspberry opening.
Who was the face of CIE by Jacqueline Cochran?+
American actress Candice Bergen was the famous face of this fragrance when Shulton launched it in 1976, embodying its sporty, independent, and outdoorsy style.
Can CIE by Jacqueline Cochran be worn in hot summer weather?+
It can be worn in summer, but the soapy aldehydes and incense may feel heavy in high humidity. Stick to cooler summer evenings or air-conditioned rooms.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCORELook to Chanel No. 19 or Estee Lauder Private Collection for similar soapy green openings and heavy mossy dry downs.
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