Clin d'Oeil
Designed for vintage fragrance collectors and lovers of eighties floral greens, Bourjois Clin d'Oeil offers a retro blend of ylang-ylang, peach, and orange blossom over a herbal basil undertone. It appeals to enthusiasts seeking classic French drugstore perfumery. Wear it on breezy April afternoons when you want a clean, nostalgic aura.
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Performance Metrics
120 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Expect 6 to 8 hours of skin wear, extending past 10 hours on clothing. Sillage projects about arm's length for two hours before pulling back into an elbow-length bubble. It performs best in mild spring weather between 12 and 22 degrees Celsius.
Notes Pyramid
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Clin d'Oeil opens with a sharp burst of aldehydes, lemon, and herbal basil before revealing a soft floral core of jasmine, wisteria, and rose. A touch of peach adds minor warmth without sweetness. The texture feels soapy, crisp, and distinctly green, finishing on a clean oakmoss and sandalwood foundation.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe white floral and aldehydic accords dominate early, creating an airy, soap-bar sensation on skin. Over the first hour, the fresh spicy basil recedes, giving way to creamy ylang-ylang and green florals. The dry down settles into a clean, slightly woody aura that stays crisp without turning powdery or heavy.
Community Data
202 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in spring and summer. The vote picture leans most toward daytime.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Authentic 1980s green floral structure created by top French perfumers.
Crisp aldehyde opening offers immediate fresh energy.
Solid 6 to 8 hour longevity on skin for an Eau de Toilette.
Clean, soapy dry down ideal for casual spring daytime wear.
Well-balanced floral heart featuring jasmine and wisteria.
Moderate sillage that stays respectful in office environments.
Herbal basil note prevents the citrus top from feeling generic.
Appeals strongly to vintage fragrance collectors and enthusiasts.
Performs reliably on cotton clothing past ten hours.
Delivers a nostalgic French bath soap aura.
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Discontinued status makes bottles difficult to source today.
Sharp aldehyde opening can feel dated to modern gourmand fans.
Herbal basil note may smell slightly bitter during cold weather.
Vintage bottles on secondary markets carry risk of note degradation.
Lacks the heavy vanilla sweetness popular in current releases.
High summer heat makes the green citrus top feel harsh.
Sillage drops to a close skin scent after three hours.
Not suitable for formal black-tie evening events.
Subtle peach note may disappoint gourmand fruit lovers.
Requires careful storage to preserve fragile top aldehydes.
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Bourjois Clin d'Oeil Review: Vintage Eighties Green Floral”
Clin d'Oeil opens with a strong spray of bright aldehydes paired with tart lemon and sharp basil. The initial blast hits skin with the signature crispness of mid-1980s French drugstore creations. There is an immediate soapy sheen that cuts through cool morning air. You notice the herbal bite right away, keeping the citrus top from turning synthetic or overly sweet.
Within twenty minutes, the sharp opening settles into a lush floral bouquet. Jasmine and wisteria take center stage in the mid notes, backed by ylang-ylang and a soft slice of peach. The peach note never dominates the blend. Instead, it subtly rounds out the green edges of rose and orange blossom. As the middle phase evolves, a retro soapy texture emerges, reminiscent of classic French bath soap bars.
On warm skin, the white floral accord expands steadily. The initial bitterness recedes, allowing creamy ylang-ylang and clean jasmine to create a fresh, laundry-clean aura. The dry down relies on green oakmoss and sandalwood elements that anchor the fading florals. It never turns syrupy or cloying, keeping a crisp green backbone throughout its six-hour lifecycle.
Longevity is solid for an Eau de Toilette, lasting 6 to 8 hours on skin and over ten hours when sprayed on scarves or cotton shirts. Sillage projects roughly arm's length for the first two hours before contracting into a personal elbow-length bubble. It performs best on mild spring days, rain-softened afternoons, and casual daytime errands. High heat can make the aldehyde top note feel slightly sharp, so moderate spring weather brings out its best balance.
This scent targets vintage enthusiasts, retro fragrance collectors, and lovers of classic green florals. If your wardrobe revolves around modern sugary gourmands or heavy vanilla bombs, Clin d'Oeil will likely feel dated and overly soapy. However, enthusiasts who appreciate vintage Cacharel Anais Anais or Chanel No. 19 will instantly respect the work of perfumers François Demachy and Jacques Polge.
Clin d'Oeil remains a charming snapshot of mid-eighties accessible perfumery. It delivers bright greens and clean white florals without feeling dense or suffocating. While finding vintage bottles requires patience on auction sites, enthusiasts of retro French florals will appreciate its crisp, nostalgic character.
FAQs
What does Bourjois Clin d'Oeil smell like?+
Bourjois Clin d'Oeil smells like a classic 1980s floral green fragrance. It opens with sharp aldehydes, lemon, and herbal basil before unfolding into a clean heart of jasmine, wisteria, and rose with a soft soapy dry down.
How does the opening of Clin d'Oeil differ from its dry down?+
The opening hits skin with a sharp, fizzy blast of aldehydes, basil, and lemon. As it dries down over forty minutes, the initial bitterness softens into a smooth, soapy white floral accord centered on jasmine and sandalwood.
How long does Clin d'Oeil last on skin and clothing?+
Clin d'Oeil lasts between 6 and 8 hours on skin during mild spring weather. On cotton shirts and wool scarves, the green floral notes linger past ten hours, maintaining a clean soapiness throughout the day.
What is the sillage and projection of Bourjois Clin d'Oeil?+
The sillage projects to an arm's length during the first two hours of wear. After the third hour, projection contracts to a moderate elbow-length bubble that stays noticeable to nearby people without invading personal room space.
Which seasons are best for wearing Clin d'Oeil?+
Spring and early autumn are the best seasons for Clin d'Oeil. Cool breeze and moderate temperatures between 12 and 20 degrees Celsius allow the green basil, lemon, and jasmine notes to shine without turning sharp or cloying.
What occasions suit Bourjois Clin d'Oeil?+
Clin d'Oeil suits casual daytime activities, weekend outdoor brunches, daytime errands, and relaxed office environments. Its clean, French soap character feels fresh and approachable for morning wear rather than heavy formal evening events.
Is Clin d'Oeil strictly for women or can anyone wear it?+
Although marketed for women upon its 1984 release, Bourjois Clin d'Oeil features strong green basil and crisp aldehyde top notes that appeal to any vintage fragrance lover who enjoys clean soapy green florals regardless of gender.
Who is the target audience for Bourjois Clin d'Oeil?+
The primary audience includes vintage perfume collectors and fans of 1980s French drugstore classics. It appeals to enthusiasts of perfumers François Demachy and Jacques Polge who prefer crisp, green aldehydic compositions over modern sugary gourmands.
Can you layer Clin d'Oeil with other fragrances?+
Yes, Clin d'Oeil layers well with single-note sandalwood or vetiver bases to add grounding depth to its floral top notes. Layering it over a simple cedar oil tempers the bright aldehydes during chilly autumn days.
What fragrances smell similar to Bourjois Clin d'Oeil?+
Clin d'Oeil shares a soapy floral green vibe with Cacharel Anais Anais. Lovers of sharp green florals will also find similarities in Chanel No. 19 and Chanel Cristalle, though Clin d'Oeil features a warmer ylang-ylang heart.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCORELook toward Cacharel Anais Anais for a similar vintage soapy white floral feel. Chanel No. 19 offers a greener, drier galbanum alternative, while Chanel Cristalle provides a sharper citrus-oakmoss angle.
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