De Profundis Limited Edition
This limited fragrance from Serge Lutens highlights the sharp, bitter scent of chrysanthemum paired with violet. The perfume opens with wet green notes before transitioning into dry incense and woodsy notes on the skin. It performs best in temperate autumn weather, offering a distinct and introspective option for collectors seeking something outside mainstream sweet florals.
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Performance Metrics
541 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
This perfume offers moderate longevity of 6 to 8 hours on skin. It projects at arm's length for the first 2 hours before settling into a quiet skin scent, performing best in cool, damp, or rainy weather.
Notes Pyramid
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A cold and dry floral scent defined by the bitter, realistic aroma of chrysanthemum, combined with powdery violet and wet green notes. The texture is damp and cool at first, like crushed stems in a florist shop, before drying down into a mineral, ash-covered incense on a clean woodsy base.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe dominant smoky and green accords behave dynamically on skin, opening with a bitter, herbal freshness before transitioning into a dry, mineral ash. The powdery violet adds a soft, vintage cosmetic texture that balances the cold, earthy incense in the base.
Community Data
451 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
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REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in spring and winter.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
True-to-life chrysanthemum aroma that avoids modern sugary sweetness.
Complex transition from fresh green notes to a dry, mineral finish.
Refined ingredient quality that feels airy and clean throughout the wear.
Soft violet note provides a smooth, velvety counterpoint to the bitter stems.
Incense in the base is light and wearable rather than thick or cloying.
Excellent choice for cool, overcast days and rainy spring mornings.
Elegant unisex profile that wears comfortably on both men and women.
Subtle sillage creates a personal scent bubble that will not overwhelm others.
Perfect signature option for lovers of gothic, atmospheric perfumery.
Sits beautifully on wool clothing, lingering longer than on warm skin.
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Missing the damp, earthy soil undertones of the original bell jar release.
Violet and spice combination can lean soapy on some skin chemistries.
Heart notes shift to a powdery texture quite rapidly after application.
Intimate projection means it will not project far or get noticed from a distance.
Melancholic character might not suit joyful, casual, or festive occasions.
High price per bottle makes it a risky and expensive blind buy.
Poor performance in hot summer heat, where it becomes flat and fleeting.
Hard to test in person due to very limited department store distribution.
Opening green accord has a sharp, almost metallic coldness.
Dry-down can feel a bit simple once the main florals fade away.
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Serge Lutens De Profundis Review: The Beauty of Cold Chrysanthemum”
The scent opens with a sharp shock of cold green notes, immediately accompanied by the bitter, herbaceous smell of fresh chrysanthemum. Unlike typical bright florists, this introduction carries a chilly, damp quality, like crushed stems in cold water. It feels stark and clean, avoiding any sugary top notes to establish a quiet, solemn mood right away.
Within half an hour, the green sharpness softens as powdery violet and a subtle blend of dry spices emerge in the heart. The chrysanthemum remains the central focus, but the violet adds a velvety, slightly vintage texture that keeps the composition from feeling too harsh. This stage feels incredibly calm, mimicking the scent of a shaded stone garden after a heavy spring rain.
As the fragrance settles on the skin, the floral elements gradually recede to reveal a dry, mineral base. Incense and cold ash dominate the final hours, supported by faint, clean woodsy notes. This dry-down is smoky but never heavy or church-like. Instead, the ash creates a clean, grey trail that clings close to the body, ending the development on a quiet note.
With moderate longevity, the perfume stays present for roughly seven hours. The projection is polite, staying within arm's length before fading into a skin scent. It performs beautifully in cool, damp weather, making it a natural choice for rainy spring mornings or crisp autumn afternoons when the air is still.
This unisex scent fits individuals who appreciate artistic, atmospheric perfumery over mass-appealing sweetness. It pairs well with formal wear, grey wool coats, or quiet afternoons spent indoors. It is not designed to gather attention, but rather to provide a personal space of calm and reflection for the wearer.
While the high price tag and limited availability make it a serious investment, the sheer realism of the chrysanthemum note justifies the cost for niche enthusiasts. If you seek a cozy, warm vanilla, you should skip this. For those who appreciate cold, earthy florals, it remains a compelling reference point that is well worth sampling.
FAQs
What does Serge Lutens De Profundis Limited Edition smell like?+
The fragrance opens with a cold burst of green notes and realistic, bitter chrysanthemum. As it develops, powdery violet adds a soft texture before drying down into dry incense, woodsy notes, and mineral ash. It smells like a damp, shaded stone garden.
Is De Profundis Limited Edition suitable for daily wear?+
While it is light enough for office wear due to its polite sillage, the introspective, cold nature of the chrysanthemum and incense notes makes it better suited for formal occasions, quiet days, or cool, overcast weather rather than casual daily use.
How long does De Profundis Limited Edition last on the skin?+
You can expect this fragrance to last between 6 and 8 hours on skin, with the green chrysanthemum fading into a soft skin scent within the first 3 hours, leaving behind a subtle trail of dry ash and woody incense.
Does this perfume project strongly?+
No, this scent has moderate to intimate sillage. It projects about arm's length for the first 2 hours before settling close to the skin, making it a quiet, personal scent bubble rather than a loud, room-filling fragrance.
What seasons are best for wearing De Profundis?+
This fragrance performs best during cool autumn and spring days. The damp green notes and cold chrysanthemum bloom beautifully in rainy weather, reflecting the crisp, fresh, and slightly melancholy atmosphere of transition seasons.
Is De Profundis Limited Edition unisex?+
Yes, the scent is completely unisex. The bitter green notes, herbal chrysanthemum, and dry incense base avoid typical sugary feminine or sharp masculine cliches, making it suitable for any enthusiast who enjoys atmospheric, cold floral compositions.
What is the difference between this and the original De Profundis?+
Many collectors note that this limited edition version is slightly lighter and more powdery. It highlights the violet and green notes more prominently while dialling back the deep, damp, earthy soil accords found in the original bell jar release.
Can you layer De Profundis with other fragrances?+
It is best worn alone to appreciate its complex chrysanthemum and ash evolution. However, you can layer it with a simple woodsy or clean musk fragrance to ground the green notes and extend the longevity of the dry incense base.
Who is the target audience for this fragrance?+
This perfume is designed for niche enthusiasts, collectors, and lovers of gothic or atmospheric scents. Those who appreciate cold, realistic florals like violet and chrysanthemum rather than warm, sweet gourmands will find it particularly appealing.
Is De Profundis a safe blind buy?+
This is not a safe blind buy due to the polarizing nature of the bitter chrysanthemum and cold ash notes. We highly recommend purchasing a sample first to see how the earthy, smoky base develops on your skin.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREFor a similar damp floral atmosphere with stronger soil notes, look to Beaufort London Fathom V. If you prefer a cold, rooty floral without the smoky base, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist offers a comparable introspective feel.
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