Enthousiasme 1
Enthousiasme 1 by Jacques Griffe is a 1960 Chypre Floral staple for those who value classic perfumery. Featuring bold aldehydes and a spicy coriander top, the heart blossoms into rose and jasmine. The dry-down is an earthy, long-lasting blend of oakmoss, vetiver, and sandalwood, making it a perfect choice for sophisticated evening wear during autumn and winter months.
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Performance Metrics
16 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Longevity is exceptional, typically lasting eight to ten hours on skin and days on clothing. The sillage projects at an arm's length for several hours, making it ideal for formal wear in cooler autumn and winter weather.
Notes Pyramid
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A bold, vintage Chypre Floral that balances sharp aldehydes and fresh bergamot against a deep, earthy foundation. The heart blooms with jasmine, rose, and spicy carnation, while the dry-down is intensely woody and resinous, dominated by oakmoss, vetiver, and warm sandalwood. It has a dry, sophisticated, and polished texture.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe composition is dominated by a dry, earthy oakmoss accord that anchors the entire wear. As the fragrance develops, it pivots from sharp, metallic aromatics to a rich, woody base. It stays remarkably consistent, with the patchouli and vetiver providing a continuous, grounded sensation that feels classic and authoritative.
Community Data
43 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in fall and winter. The vote picture leans most toward night.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Impressive longevity lasting over eight hours
Sophisticated, authoritative presence for the office
High quality oakmoss accord that feels authentic
Perfect for cold autumn and winter days
Unique, non-gourmand scent profile
Exceptional performance on clothing
Refined floral heart of jasmine and rose
Versatile for formal and smart-casual wear
Complex note pyramid with clear transitions
Great value for lovers of classic chypres
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Initial aldehydic blast can feel too sharp
Requires appreciation for earthy, mossy notes
Not suited for warm, humid summer weather
Too intense for those who prefer light florals
Harder to find compared to modern designer scents
Not a crowd-pleasing, mass-market style fragrance
Opening pepper can feel slightly medicinal
Lack of sweetness might alienate younger wearers
Not a blind-buy safe fragrance
Requires a specific personal style to pull off
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“A Bold Return to Form: Jacques Griffe Enthousiasme 1 Review”
Enthousiasme 1 opens with a wall of sound. The aldehydes are immediate, crisp, and metallic, working in tandem with a bright bergamot that wakes up the senses. This is not a fragrance that eases you in. Instead, it makes its presence known within the first few seconds of spraying. Touches of pepper and coriander add a sharp, spicy edge that prevents the opening from feeling too soapy or generic. It sets a formal tone right from the jump.
As the opening settles, the heart emerges with a complex floral core. Rose and jasmine provide a classic, rounded body, while carnation gives a slightly clove-like, spicy lift. Narcissus adds an interesting, somewhat haughty, green-floral dimension that defines the middle stage. Lily-of-the-valley appears as a faint, clean breath of air, providing just enough brightness to keep the middle from getting weighed down by the heavier base notes. It is a well-managed transition that respects the traditional floral structure.
The dry-down is where the fragrance truly earns its classification. The base notes appear slowly, revealing a dense, earthy foundation of oakmoss. This is the heart of the chypre, and it is unapologetic in its dryness. Patchouli and vetiver add an extra layer of soil-like depth, while sandalwood and musk create a lingering, warm surface on the skin. This dry-down lasts for hours, becoming more resinous and woody as the day wears on, with the amber providing just enough warmth to stop it from feeling clinical.
Performance is impressive. On clean skin, the fragrance lasts eight to ten hours without breaking a sweat. If it touches your coat or scarf, it will linger for days. The projection is moderate to strong, creating a distinct scent bubble that signals a wearer who values tradition. It is a serious performer that does not require heavy applications, making the value proposition quite high for those who enjoy the scent profile.
In terms of fit and audience, this is for the person who finds modern gourmands too sweet and prefers scents that have an architectural feel. It suits a smart, professional aesthetic perfectly. Because of the heavy moss and wood content, it performs best in cooler climates, specifically during the transition into autumn and the depths of winter.
Ultimately, Enthousiasme 1 is a reminder of how high-quality chypres were built. It is not for everyone, particularly those who prefer fruity, light, or airy compositions. But if you have a love for mid-century perfumery and a skin chemistry that handles oakmoss well, this is a refined, classic option that stands out for its lack of compromise.
FAQs
What does Enthousiasme 1 smell like?+
It is a bold Chypre Floral that opens with metallic aldehydes and sharp bergamot. The heart brings a classic floral mix of jasmine and rose, while the base offers an earthy, resinous foundation of oakmoss and patchouli. It smells like a polished, vintage perfume from the early 1960s.
How does the fragrance change from opening to dry-down?+
The opening is immediate and sharp due to the aldehydes and spicy coriander. As it settles, the jasmine and carnation notes soften the initial impact. The dry-down becomes heavily woody and earthy, with the oakmoss and vetiver lingering on the skin for many hours.
How long does Enthousiasme 1 last?+
Longevity is excellent, often reaching eternal status on clothes or hair. On skin, you can expect at least eight to ten hours of wear. The heavy base of sandalwood and amber keeps the scent profile present throughout a full workday without needing to reapply.
Is the sillage strong?+
The projection is moderate to strong, especially in the first two hours. It creates a noticeable scent bubble at arm's length. Because of the aldehydes, it cuts through the air, making it suitable for open office spaces or outdoor evening events where you want to be smelled.
Which season is best for this perfume?+
Fall and winter are the best times to wear this. The heavy oakmoss and warm spicy accords perform beautifully in cooler temperatures. The cold air allows the floral notes of lily-of-the-valley and rose to shine without becoming cloying or overwhelming as they might in humid summer heat.
Is this a good office fragrance?+
Yes, it is highly suitable for professional settings. It carries a sense of authority and seriousness typical of 1960s perfumery. Just be mindful of the initial spray, as the aldehydes can be quite punchy. A single application is plenty for a long day in a boardroom.
Does it lean more feminine or masculine?+
While marketed as female, the heavy dose of oakmoss, vetiver, and patchouli makes it quite unisex by modern standards. Anyone who enjoys classic, earthy chypres will find it very wearable. It lacks the sugary sweetness found in modern feminine releases, favoring a sharper, more botanical profile instead.
Should I blind buy this fragrance?+
No, you should sample it first. Enthousiasme 1 is a distinct vintage chypre that requires an appreciation for aldehydes and mossy bases. If you are accustomed to modern gourmands, this will feel very foreign. Test it over several days to see how the patchouli and sandalwood interact with your specific skin chemistry.
Can this be a signature scent?+
It is a fantastic signature scent for those who love vintage aesthetics. It feels consistent, reliable, and sophisticated. It works well across various formal and smart-casual settings, acting as a personal scent anchor. You must be comfortable with people noticing your perfume, as it makes a clear, confident statement.
Is it suitable for gifting?+
Only gift this if you know the recipient loves historic chypres. It is not a crowd-pleasing, safe gift. However, for a collector who admires the history of Jacques Griffe or the 1960s perfume era, it would be a thoughtful and unique addition to their collection.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREWhile no exact modern equivalent exists due to changing regulations, it shares significant DNA with Guerlain Mitsouko and classic Chanel offerings. If you enjoy mossy, aldehydic fragrances, these are the best starting points for comparison.
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