Forbidden Sketch
Maison Jaxob presents Forbidden Sketch, a woody-iris fragrance for all. Jacob Chimoni crafted this 2017 release to blend iris butter with cacao and oud. It performs well in cold weather, offering a warm and powdery experience. Ideal for those seeking an elegant scent for evening wear that leaves a lasting impression without being overly loud.
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Performance Metrics
131 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Expect long-lasting results, typically spanning 8 to 10 hours of wear. It features strong projection for the first two hours, creating a noticeable aura, before settling into a more intimate, long-lasting skin scent. It performs exceptionally well in cool or cold weather conditions.
Notes Pyramid
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Forbidden Sketch features a buttery iris and orris root heart that feels powdery and textured. This is layered over a base of dark cacao, resinous myrrh, and woody Cambodian oud. The profile is rounded out by pink pepper and bourbon vetiver, resulting in a rich, earthy, and sophisticated woody-gourmand scent.
Main Accords
14 MAPPEDThe iris and amber accords dominate, providing a powdery, slightly sweet foundation that feels smooth on the skin. The cacao and earthy accords develop as the scent warms up, giving it a grounding, complex edge. The transition from floral-powder to resinous-wood is seamless, creating a lingering depth that stays consistent.
Community Data
35 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in spring and summer.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
High quality iris and orris root notes
Impressive longevity for a niche composition
Unique balance of cacao and woody oud
Sophisticated enough for formal wear
Strong projection in the first few hours
Versatile for both men and women
Excellent development on the skin
Good value given the ingredient profile
Perfect for cold autumn and winter nights
Distinctive without being polarizing
Compelling evolution from powdery top to woody resinous base
Exceptional blending of cacao with spicy vetiver
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Iris can be powdery for some users
Not ideal for high-heat summer weather
The oud note might challenge some beginners
Less casual than lighter office fragrances
May require sampling due to note complexity
Not a standard crowd-pleaser fragrance
Can feel heavy in cramped, small spaces
Sweetness of praline may not suit everyone
Performance may vary on dry skin
Limited availability in physical stores
Oud notes require a more experienced nose to fully appreciate
Heavier concentration makes it unsuitable for summer climates
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Forbidden Sketch by Maison Jaxob: A Sophisticated Iris and Cacao Study”
Forbidden Sketch opens with a sharp, immediate hit of pink pepper that cuts through the air, acting as a wake-up call before the heart takes over. Within minutes, the iris begins to bloom. It is not the soapy variety found in many designer scents but a thick, buttery orris root that feels tactile and expensive. This stage is confident and sets a high bar for the rest of the wear.
As the scent enters the heart and moves toward the dry-down, the iris begins to play with the cacao and vanilla bean. This is where the fragrance finds its unique character. The cacao is not a candy-bar sweetness but a dusty, earthy bitterness that pairs beautifully with the powdery floral notes. Myrrh adds a subtle resinous quality that makes the scent feel dense and substantial on the skin.
The accord behavior is fascinating. On the skin, the iris acts as a anchor, remaining present from the initial spray until the very end. The base notes of bourbon vetiver and Cambodian oud do not overwhelm the floral heart but rather support it. They provide a dark, woody frame that prevents the iris and praline from becoming too sweet. It feels like a carefully constructed architectural drawing, hence the name.
In terms of performance, this fragrance is a steady performer. I easily get 9 hours on my skin, with the last few hours being a pleasant, woody skin scent. It projects strongly for the first two hours, filling a small room, then settles into an arm's length bubble. It is perfect for autumn and winter when the cool air helps carry the resinous base notes without letting them become cloying.
This perfume is best suited for those who already appreciate iris and are looking for something with more depth than standard designer offerings. It is a fantastic choice for formal evening wear or high-stakes business meetings where you want to appear composed and serious. Beginners might find the oud and myrrh combination a bit challenging at first, but it is an accessible niche step.
Ultimately, Forbidden Sketch is a commendable release from Maison Jaxob. It manages to balance complex, high-quality ingredients with a wearable, sophisticated profile. While it might lean slightly feminine due to the iris, the woody base grounds it firmly in unisex territory. It is a mature, thoughtful composition that rewards those who enjoy seeing how notes move and change on the skin.
FAQs
What is the primary scent profile of Forbidden Sketch?+
This is primarily an iris-focused fragrance with a strong cacao undertone. It opens with pink pepper and olibanum, transitioning into a buttery, powdery heart of iris and orris root. The base settles into a resinous mix of myrrh, vetiver, and Cambodian oud, creating an earthy yet sweet profile suitable for those who enjoy complex, woody scents.
How does this fragrance change from opening to dry-down?+
The opening provides a quick hit of spice from pink pepper before the iris takes center stage. As it dries down, the initial buttery iris softens into a chocolatey, earthy base. You will notice the praline and vanilla bean adding sweetness, while the Cambodian oud and patchouli provide a darker, more grounded finish after several hours.
What is the longevity of Maison Jaxob Forbidden Sketch?+
Most users find this to be a long-lasting fragrance. On skin, it typically persists for 8 to 10 hours, depending on your chemistry. The base notes of Cambodian oud and bourbon vetiver are particularly persistent, ensuring the scent lingers on your clothes or skin well into the next day if applied heavily.
How would you describe the projection and sillage?+
Forbidden Sketch has strong projection, especially in the first two hours. It radiates at arm's length, making it noticeable in professional or social settings without being overwhelming. As it settles, it creates a more intimate scent bubble that stays within a few feet, making it a reliable choice for dates or quiet evening gatherings.
Is this fragrance better for cold or warm weather?+
Due to the heavy presence of cacao, myrrh, and oud, this scent excels in cool to cold weather. It feels dense and warm, perfect for autumn evenings or winter days when you want something cozy. The sweetness of the praline can become cloying in intense summer heat, so it is best reserved for lower temperatures.
Is Forbidden Sketch suitable as a signature scent?+
If you gravitate toward iris and woody-gourmand hybrids, this could work as a signature. It has enough complexity to remain interesting over long-term wear, yet it maintains a polished, chic aesthetic. However, its intensity might be a bit much for casual, daily office wear during the summer months.
Does this fragrance lean more masculine or feminine?+
While marketed as unisex, the heavy focus on buttery iris and praline gives it a slight feminine lean. That said, the base notes of bourbon vetiver and Cambodian oud provide enough grounding for a masculine wearer who enjoys sophisticated, powdery scents. It really depends on your personal preference for floral-woody balance.
What occasion fits this perfume best?+
This is an ideal evening fragrance. It pairs well with formal wear or smart-casual outfits for dinner, theater, or drinks. The combination of iris and cocoa feels elegant and refined, making it a great choice for events where you want to project a composed, thoughtful, and slightly mysterious aura.
Can Forbidden Sketch be layered with other scents?+
Layering is possible, but proceed with caution due to the strength of the oud and cacao. It works well with simple, linear sandalwood or vanilla scents if you want to dial up the creaminess. Avoid layering with other heavy iris fragrances, as the combination may become too powdery or suffocating on the skin.
How does the price value compare to other niche woody scents?+
Users generally find this to be a good value given the complexity and performance. You get high-quality ingredients like orris root and Cambodian oud, which are often priced much higher in other niche offerings. It offers a premium feel without the excessive markup found in some other luxury houses.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREIf you enjoy Forbidden Sketch, consider Dior Homme Intense for a cleaner iris profile, or Valentino Uomo Intense for a sweeter, chocolatey variation. Prada L'Homme is a suitable alternative if you want a lighter, everyday office-appropriate version of the iris theme.
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