It Was A Time That Was A Time
Created in 2015 by perfumer Nicolas Bonneville, this scent explores an artistic post-cataclysm coastline through brooding oceanic accords and smoky resins. Natural sea notes and salty ambergris merge with supple suede, violet leaf, and sweet tonka bean to construct a tactile, intimate aura. Earthy patchouli and grey incense ground the base. It feels meditative and slightly rebellious. Wear this when you want to stand apart from generic aquatic colognes. It suits artists, collectors, and lovers of moody niche perfumery who crave maritime depth without sharp citrus or cheap coconut sunscreen.
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Performance Metrics
157 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Longevity extends reliably between eight and ten hours on skin, stretching past twenty-four hours on heavy fabrics. The projection is moderate, radiating two to three feet for the first two hours before settling into an intimate, smoky-marine skin aura.
Notes Pyramid
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A brooding oriental marine scent defined by salty ocean air, raw ambergris, and smoky church incense. Velvety suede and powdery violet soften the heart, while earthy patchouli, clean musk, and sweet tonka bean form a textured, grounding base.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDDominant marine and ambergris accords deliver crisp seaside salinity before smooth suede and powdery violet establish a tactile, velvety texture. Deep incense, balsamic resins, and earthy patchouli provide a persistent smoky warmth that offsets the briny chill throughout the drydown.
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When to Wear
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OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in fall and winter. The vote picture leans most toward night. It makes the most sense for date nights and casual wear.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Unusual fusion of salty marine ambergris and dark frankincense.
Impressive longevity exceeding eight to ten hours on skin.
Soft suede and tonka bean prevent the ocean notes from feeling harsh.
Stands out sharply from commercial aquatic and citrus colognes.
Fantastic contemplative mood for autumn and rainy weather.
Clings to wool jackets and scarves for several days.
Balanced unisex wear profile that leans neither masculine nor feminine.
Subtle projection ensures it never suffocates people around you.
Thoughtful artistic collaboration between Nicolas Bonneville and Shezad Dawood.
Earthy patchouli base adds authentic grounded weight.
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Extremely polarising scent profile that can divide opinions instantly.
Initial three minutes feature a sharp, briny solvent blast.
Can turn slightly medicinal or sharp on hot, humid skin.
Not suitable for standard conservative corporate office environments.
Lacks mass-market sweetness and casual crowd-pleasing appeal.
Hard to find in physical stores for sampling before purchasing.
Summer heat causes the animalic ambergris and tonka to turn heavy.
Not a safe blind buy for perfume beginners.
Subtle mid-wear sillage might disappoint lovers of loud room-filling beast scents.
The combination of sea salt and incense may feel too stark for some.
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“ICONOFLY It Was A Time That Was A Time Perfume Review”
The first spray hits with an astringent rush of alcohol and brisk sea air. Give it two minutes. Once the solvent burns away, genuine ambergris unfurls alongside cold ocean brine. It smells like standing on desolate coastal rocks after a ferocious midnight storm. You catch wet minerals, salty driftwood, and a sharp marine chill that cuts clean through the air. There are no synthetic calone watermelons or coconut cocktails here. This is raw coastal salt paired with an ancient, shadowy warmth. It instantly demands your attention.
Ten minutes in, the scent makes a radical pivot inward. Soft, velvety suede steps forward to buffer the briny blast. Violet leaf introduces a dewy, melancholic floral shade that prevents the leather from turning harsh or greasy. Alongside it, tonka bean adds a faint, almond-tinged sweetness that works in quiet counterpoint to dark patchouli. The combination feels like pulling on a vintage suede jacket that spent years absorbing seaside fog. As the heart deepens over the third hour, a cool swirl of unburned church incense begins to rise.
Skin chemistry plays a massive role in how these accords unravel. On dry skin, the saline sea notes cling stubbornly for hours, maintaining a sharp mineral edge. Warm skin, on the other hand, pulls out the balsamics and earthy patchouli far more rapidly. The suede softens into something powdery, almost intimate. Some testers detect a slightly medicinal, ink-like twang during this mid-drydown phase. That slight acrid friction is completely intentional. It keeps the fragrance from degenerating into a predictable sweet amber, maintaining its gritty, post-apocalyptic narrative.
Longevity is exceptional. You easily get nine to eleven hours on bare skin, while a single mist on a wool scarf lasts several days. Projection is polite but persistent. During the first two hours, it pushes outward roughly arms-length before contracting into a dense, intimate personal aura. Crisp autumn weather and chilly, overcast spring days suit it best. Ambient temperatures between 10 and 16 degrees Celsius keep the incense crisp and the marine salt refreshing. Do not wear this in muggy 30-degree summer humidity, as the tonka and animalic ambergris will turn sticky.
This is not a crowd-pleasing department store scent. If you want easy compliments at Sunday brunch, look elsewhere. It Was A Time That Was A Time is crafted for daring niche enthusiasts, visual artists, and lovers of atmospheric perfumery. Fans of dark maritime scents will feel right at home with its balance of brine and smoke. It possesses a genderless, contemplative energy. Wear it to late evening drinks at an underground speakeasy, outdoor cinema screenings, or quiet reflective walks along the waterfront.
Three sprays are all you need. Nicolas Bonneville delivered a truly singular creation that manages to combine decay, coastal brine, and velvety comfort without collapsing under its own artistic ambition. The balance between salty ocean air and sacred incense is nothing short of fascinating. It may alienate casual shoppers who expect sweet aquatic blue scents, but adventurous noses will find endless beauty in its strange, brooding depth.
FAQs
What does the opening of It Was A Time That Was A Time smell like?+
The opening smells like a brisk wave of salty ocean water crashing over sun-bleached minerals and cold coastal stone. During the first three minutes, a quick flash of perfumer alcohol gives way to pungent ambergris and authentic sea notes. It feels stark, briny, and invigorating rather than sweet or fruity.
How does the fragrance develop from the heart into the drydown?+
The scent shifts from a cold marine breeze into warm suede, powdery violet, sweet tonka, and dark church incense. After thirty minutes, the harsh salt recedes as supple leather and earthy patchouli take over. By hour four, it settles into an intimate skin scent dominated by dry resinous smoke and soft musk.
How long does It Was A Time That Was A Time last on skin and clothes?+
This fragrance lasts eight to ten hours on bare skin and easily survives past twenty-four hours on fabric. Thanks to dense base fixatives like ambergris, patchouli, and incense, the drydown clings persistently. Sprayed on a wool coat or cotton shirt, the velvety suede and tonka notes linger for several days.
How far does the sillage and scent bubble project?+
It projects moderately within a two to three foot radius for roughly two hours before settling close to the body. The scent never produces a choking room-filling cloud. Instead, ambergris and smoky incense generate a personal, contemplative scent aura that wafts pleasantly whenever you move or encounter a gentle breeze.
What season and temperature range are best for wearing this perfume?+
Autumn and early spring in temperatures between 10 and 18 degrees Celsius provide the ideal climate for this scent. Crisp, dry air allows the smoky incense and marine facets to project cleanly. Scorching summer heat can cause the animalic ambergris and sweet tonka bean to become uncomfortably dense and cloying.
Which occasions and settings are best suited for this fragrance?+
It excels during evening dates, art gallery gatherings, creative workplace environments, and solitary weekend walks by the water. The composition feels too brooding, smoky, and unconventional for strict corporate offices or gym sessions. Wear it whenever you want a thoughtful, atmospheric signature that feels artistic and personal.
Is It Was A Time That Was A Time more masculine or feminine?+
This perfume is genuinely unisex with a completely balanced wear profile across both masculine and feminine aesthetics. The brisk sea notes and rugged suede offer traditional masculine cues, while the powdery violet and sweet tonka bean introduce gentle softness. Anyone who appreciates dark, atmospheric perfumery can wear it effortlessly.
How does this compare to Zoologist Squid?+
Both perfumes explore dark marine incense, but this ICONOFLY release is drier, more leathery, and less sweet. Zoologist Squid emphasizes an inky black opoponax and amber base, whereas It Was A Time That Was A Time features tactile suede, earthy patchouli, and a more pronounced mineral ocean breeze.
Is this perfume worth the price for niche fragrance collectors?+
Yes, it represents strong value for adventurous collectors seeking rare, museum-quality olfactory art with top tier performance. Formulated with robust oil concentration and signed by master perfumer Nicolas Bonneville, just two or three sprays provide an entire day of complex wear, making a single bottle last for years.
What fragrance families or notes pair well with this scent for layering?+
It pairs best with straightforward dry cedarwood colognes, minimalist white musks, or unsweetened citrus fragrances like bergamot. Layering a bright citrus on top softens the initial briny shock, while a sheer cedarwood base extends the smoky incense. Avoid pairing it with heavy gourmands or intense white florals.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREWhile truly unique, it shares atmospheric DNA with Zoologist Squid for its inky marine incense feel, though Squid leans sweeter with opoponax. Fans of Beaufort London's smoky oceanic work or L'Artisan Parfumeur's dry incense will also recognize kindred aesthetic territory.
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