Melancholia

Melancholia opens with a startling clash of crisp green apple, bitter violet leaf, and cold, smoky incense. It smells like biting into a tart Granny Smith apple right next to smoldering cigarette ash. Bergamot and black currant give it a brief burst of sharp zest, creating an edgy, atmospheric introduction that immediately commands attention before mellowing.

After about twenty minutes, the initial smoky shock softens considerably. Delicate lily-of-the-valley and powdery narcissus bloom in the heart, sweetening slightly with a subtle note of dried dates. As the perfume reaches full dry-down around the three hour mark, it settles into an earthy, woody base of clean clearwood, aromatic juniper, and damp grassy vetiver.

On bare skin, Melancholia typically lasts between 6 and 8 hours before fading into a faint skin scent. On clothing, wool scarves, and cotton fabrics, the fixatives perform significantly better, with the earthy vetiver and clearwood base notes lingering clearly for 10 to 12 hours. It offers reliable endurance for a regular working day.

Melancholia pushes outward with moderate projection during its first 60 to 90 minutes, reaching roughly arm's length or about two feet. As the heart notes take over, the projection pulls inward, creating an intimate scent bubble roughly one foot around the wearer. It leaves a subtle, mysterious trail without overwhelming crowded spaces or small rooms.

Melancholia performs at its absolute best in cool, damp weather, particularly during rainy spring days and crisp autumn afternoons between 45 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. The moisture in the air amplifies its wet green foliage and petrichor feel. In hot, humid summer weather, the smoky incense and bitter violet leaf can turn unpleasantly sharp.

This fragrance thrives in casual, contemplative settings like rainy weekend coffee runs, museum walks, bookstore browsing, and creative studio work. It also works for intimate evening dates if your partner appreciates artistic scents. However, avoid wearing it to sweaty gym workouts, summer beach parties, or conservative corporate workplaces where unconventional smoke notes might confuse people.

Melancholia is completely unisex. The crisp green apple and soft floral heart of lily-of-the-valley provide an airy, delicate lift, while the dry incense, dark juniper, and rooty vetiver ground the base in clean woodiness. It balances cold and warm elements evenly, making it equally appealing to anyone drawn to moody, unconventional niche perfumery.

Both fragrances share a dry, unapologetic incense smoke note, but they travel in different directions. Bois d'Ascese is far warmer, heavier, and darker, focusing on whiskey, burnt birch tar, and rich amber resins. Melancholia is much cooler, lighter, and wetter, balancing its smoky ash with crisp green apple, fresh violet leaf, and delicate spring florals.

Priced around $160 for a 50ml Eau de Parfum, Melancholia delivers good value for artistic fragrance enthusiasts who value cinematic concept and master perfumer Mark Buxton's work. You are paying for creative niche craftsmanship rather than commercial utility. Because the scent profile is so unique, sampling first guarantees you get your money's worth.

Yes, Melancholia layers nicely with clean, minimalist scents. A light spritz of an airy ISO E Super or sheer white musk fragrance can soften the smoky opening and extend its woody radiance. Alternatively, pairing it with a simple vanilla or juicy pear single-note oil rounds out the bitter green edges, adding approachable sweetness to its cool base.