Nu
Nu by Yves Saint Laurent is built for anyone who prefers spicy warmth and dry woods over sweet vanilla florals. Led by crisp cardamom, dark frankincense, and rich sandalwood, this cult classic carries a sleek, confident mood reminiscent of vintage leather jackets and cool night air. Soft jasmine and vetiver keep the smoky heart grounded and wearable. It is an ideal signature scent for experienced fragrance enthusiasts, gothic style lovers, and anyone seeking a standout unisex evening perfume for crisp fall and winter weather.
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Performance Metrics
5,354 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Expect 7 to 9 hours of solid longevity on bare skin, while application to fabric easily extends past 16 hours. Projection starts strong with a 3 to 4 foot scent bubble for the initial two hours before relaxing into a personal one to two foot sillage trail of sandalwood and incense smoke.
Notes Pyramid
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Nu is a cool, aromatic spicy fragrance defined by an invigorating burst of crushed green cardamom and cracked black pepper, layered over a core of smoky frankincense and creamy orchid petals. Earthy vetiver, soft musk, and rich sandalwood anchor the base, producing a dry, resinous woody profile with zero syrupy sweetness.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe dominant warm spicy and fresh spicy accords strike immediately through cardamom and black pepper, creating an invigorating contrast against cool frankincense. Over several hours, the smoky balsamic resins soften into dry Mysore sandalwood and vetiver, leaving a clean, powdery woodiness that stays warm against the skin.
Community Data
2,318 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
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When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in winter and spring.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Outstanding 7 to 9 hour longevity on skin and over 16 hours on clothes
Distinctive cold cardamom and smoky incense contrast without sugary sweetness
Truly unisex profile that wears effortlessly on anyone who enjoys dry woods
Stunning in cool autumn weather and cold winter evening temperatures
Complex note development moving smoothly from sharp spice to creamy woods
Noticeable 3 to 4 foot projection bubble during the initial two hours
Balanced floral heart of orchid and jasmine that softens the heavy spices
Rich sandalwood and earthy vetiver base that clings nicely to pulse points
Iconic early 2000s Tom Ford era design and perfumery heritage
A refined signature choice for fans of non-sweet resinous scents
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Discontinued original formulation makes vintage bottles scarce and expensive
Not suitable for shoppers who prefer modern sweet vanilla or fruity gourmands
The original metallic disc spray button is clumsy and prone to jamming
The sharp black pepper and cardamom opening can feel jarring to sensitive noses
Too heavy and dense for humid summer heat or hot outdoor activities
Dry-down can lean slightly sharp on very dry skin without proper moisturizing
Lacks the high versatility needed for casual daytime gym or workout wear
Polarizing spicy incense profile means it is not a safe blind purchase
Noticeable differences in depth between the original EDP and later EDT editions
Reformulated square bottle versions lack the heavy base richness of the 2001 original
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Yves Saint Laurent Nu In-Depth Review: Cold Spice and Smoky Incense”
When Yves Saint Laurent released Nu in 2001 under the creative guidance of Tom Ford and master perfumer Jacques Cavallier Belletrud, it immediately challenged early 2000s fragrance trends. The first spray delivers an unapologetic blast of green cardamom pod and bright Italian bergamot. Rather than greeting you with sugary fruit or clean laundry ozonics, this opening feels cool, biting, and aromatic. The cardamom note is crisp and herbal, cutting cleanly through the air like freshly crushed spices on a granite counter.
Within fifteen minutes, the brisk citrus lifts away to reveal an intense heart of cracked black pepper and dark frankincense smoke. A velvety orchid note emerges alongside subtle night-blooming jasmine, softening what could otherwise be a harsh, dry spice blend. The floral notes never turn sweet or powdery like a conventional bouquet. Instead, they act as a creamy cushion underneath the incense, giving the fragrance a cool, shadowy floral character that feels both gothic and sleek.
As Nu settles into its deep dry-down over the next few hours, the warm woody accords take full command of your skin. Rich Mysore sandalwood blends with the earthy, rooty bite of Haitian vetiver, while a clean white musk prevents the heavier resins from turning murky. The frankincense stays present from start to finish, transforming from a sharp, cool plume of smoke in the opening into a smooth, warm resin that hugs your pulse points closely.
Performance on skin is rock-solid without becoming overwhelming. You can comfortably expect 7 to 9 hours of longevity from three sprays, with a noticeable 3 to 4 foot projection bubble across the first two hours. On heavy clothing like wool sweaters and denim jackets, traces of smoky sandalwood and dry black pepper will linger well past 16 hours. This scent is built for cool weather, coming alive in late autumn chill and freezing winter nights where the biting air gives the spices room to shine.
Although originally marketed to women, Nu has always possessed a truly unisex soul. Anyone who enjoys dry woods, frankincense resin, and unsweetened spices will feel completely at home wearing it. It suits thoughtful evenings out, quiet cocktail lounges, and leather-jacket weather rather than sunny gym sessions or crowded morning offices. Perfume collectors who appreciate Tom Ford's edgy early-aughts design ethos will find endless satisfaction here.
Yves Saint Laurent Nu remains a towering benchmark in the spicy incense genre. While original disc bottles are discontinued and costly on the vintage market, the fragrance delivers an unmatched blend of cold cardamom, smoky incense, and warm sandalwood. If you have the chance to sample a vintage decant, it is an essential experience for anyone who loves bold, non-sweet perfumery.
FAQs
What does the opening of Yves Saint Laurent Nu smell like?+
The initial spray opens with an invigorating, brisk combination of green cardamom pods and zesty bergamot. Rather than smelling sweet or fruity, it delivers a cool, aromatic burst of cracked black pepper that immediately establishes a bold, spicy character on the skin.
How does Nu transition from its heart to the base dry-down?+
After twenty minutes, the sharp citrus and pepper soften into smoky frankincense and creamy orchid petals. As the hours pass, the floral elements recede, leaving a warm base of Mysore sandalwood, earthy Haitian vetiver, and clean musk that lingers close to the skin.
How long does Yves Saint Laurent Nu last on skin and clothes?+
Nu consistently delivers 7 to 9 hours of longevity on bare skin. On fabric items like wool coats, scarves, and cotton shirts, the resinous frankincense and sandalwood base notes easily cling for over 16 hours, maintaining subtle warmth throughout the day.
What is the projection radius and scent bubble of Nu?+
Nu projects strongly for the first two hours, creating a noticeable 3 to 4 foot scent bubble around the wearer. As the top notes dissipate, it settles into an intimate one to two foot sillage trail that leaves a pleasant, smoky impression.
Which seasons and temperatures bring out the best in Nu?+
Nu performs best in cold weather, particularly during late autumn and throughout winter when temperatures drop below 60 degrees Fahrenheit (15 degrees Celsius). Crisp, chilly air keeps the intense cardamom and frankincense resins balanced, preventing the composition from feeling heavy.
What occasions and settings are most suitable for wearing Nu?+
This fragrance is tailored for evening wear, date nights, cocktail lounges, and formal dinners. Its dark, spicy character feels right at home in dressed-up settings, whereas it may feel too intense for conservative daytime offices or casual workouts.
Is Yves Saint Laurent Nu feminine or unisex?+
Although originally marketed to women upon its 2001 release, Nu is genuinely unisex. The prominent notes of dry black pepper, smoky frankincense, earthy vetiver, and sandalwood give it a woody spice profile that smells equally handsome on men and women.
How does Nu compare to Tom Ford Black Orchid?+
Both fragrances share a core of spiced orchid and dark woody warmth from the Tom Ford era. However, Black Orchid is significantly sweeter with chocolate and heavy patchouli, whereas Nu remains dry, cool, and focused on frankincense and cardamom.
Is buying a vintage bottle of Nu worth the secondary market price?+
For vintage fragrance enthusiasts, Nu offers exceptional artistic value due to its high concentration of rich frankincense and sandalwood oils. However, because it is discontinued, secondary prices are steep, making small decants the most practical choice for casual buyers.
Which fragrance families and notes layer best with Nu?+
Nu layers exceptionally well with single-note bourbon vanilla perfumes to add sweetness to its dry incense heart. It also pairs harmoniously with clean cedarwood or crisp citrus colognes to brighten the peppery top notes for daytime wear.
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If you cannot find a vintage bottle of Nu, consider Tom Ford Black Orchid for a similar spiced orchid and dark patchouli vibe, or Tom Ford Shanghai Lily for a smoky floral spice blend. Estee Lauder Spellbound offers comparable vintage clove-cardamom warmth, while YSL La Collection Nu provides a lighter, streamlined modern interpretation.
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