Phloem
Phloem by Jorum Studio is a bold unisex marine floral perfume launched in 2019. Created by perfumer Euan McCall, it blends sour rhubarb, passionfruit, and a salty oyster accord. It offers excellent longevity and a polarizing signature that suits daring fragrance enthusiasts.
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Performance Metrics
705 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
It lasts eight to ten hours with strong initial projection that radiates beyond arm's length before settling into a warm, salty skin scent.
Notes Pyramid
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A thick, humid unisex perfume mixing sour rhubarb, sweet passionfruit, and a briny oyster accord. Creamy camellia, warm sesame, and sticky styrax gum create a complex, bittersweet texture on skin.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe fruity and marine accords create a constant tug-of-war on skin, moving from sweet blueberry juice to salty, mineral ocean water before drying down into warm, resinous styrax.
Community Data
919 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in spring and summer.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Offers a highly unique, artistic scent profile.
Delivers excellent eight plus hour longevity.
Projects strongly in warm outdoor settings.
Features a fascinating salty and sweet contrast.
Perfect for collectors seeking avant-garde perfumery.
Rich, oily texture that clings well to dry skin.
Savory elements like caviar and sesame prevent the fruit notes from becoming cloying.
Warm, gooey styrax gum base creates a deep, resinous drydown.
Psychedelic development offers an ever shifting, complex scent journey on skin.
Unique inclusion of sour rhubarb and passionfruit adds a bright, tart opening contrast.
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Highly polarizing scent that divides opinions.
The oyster note can smell too fishy or metallic.
Sesame and ambrette can mimic sweaty skin.
Unsuitable for conservative office environments.
Opening spray can smell harsh and medicinal.
The sticky styrax base feels heavy in high humidity.
Violent, primal sensuality of the erogenous notes can feel overly aggressive.
Heavy, sticky texture of the driftwood and resin base might feel messy in warm weather.
Intense blend of opposing odorants can easily overwhelm sensitive users.
Pronounced savory spice notes may register as too greasy or culinary for daily wear.
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Jorum Studio Phloem Review: Savory Marine Fruit”
Phloem opens with a startling burst of sour rhubarb and dark, jammy blueberry. It does not smell like a typical clean berry scent. Instead, a peppery nasturtium note clashes with the fruit, creating a hot, slightly greasy spiciness. This initial stage is intense and might shock those expecting a simple summer splash.
As the sharp fruit begins to simmer, the scent shifts into its main theme. A distinct, mineral note of salty oysters emerges, mixing with sweet honeysuckle and creamy camellia. The contrast is strange. The sweet, nectar-like florals struggle against the cold, briny ocean water, making the middle phase feel both wet and warm.
After a few hours, the fragrance warms up significantly on the skin. The watery elements fade, leaving a sticky, resinous trail of styrax gum and sweet tonka bean. Sesame adds a dry, nutty texture that prevents the base from becoming too sugary. It is a slow, marbled development that changes constantly.
This perfume is a powerhouse in warm weather. It projects easily for three hours and lasts for over eight hours on skin. The saltiness seems to thrive in outdoor heat, though you must spray lightly because the heavy resins can feel suffocating in closed, air-conditioned rooms.
Phloem is not a safe crowd-pleaser. It fits creative individuals who view perfume as wearable art rather than a simple grooming tool. If you enjoy clean, soapy scents, you should avoid this entirely. It demands confidence and a taste for the unusual.
If you are intrigued by the idea of salty fruit and warm, skin-like resins, Phloem is a fascinating project. Do not buy a full bottle blind. Purchase a small sample first to see how the savory oysters and sweet berries behave on your skin over a long day.
FAQs
What does Phloem smell like initially?+
The opening blasts you with a sharp, sour mix of rhubarb and blueberry. A heavy dose of spicy Nasturtium adds a peppery, green warmth that makes the fruit feel savory rather than sweet. It is intense and highly unusual.
How does Phloem develop on skin over time?+
As the sharp fruit settled, a salty oyster note emerges alongside creamy Camellia and Meadowsweet. The drydown becomes warmer and woodier, showing nutty driftwood and sweet, sticky styrax resin that clings to the skin for hours.
How long does Phloem last on the skin?+
This perfume easily delivers eight to ten hours of longevity on skin. The resinous base of styrax gum and tonka bean ensures it lingers through a full day, especially when worn in spring or mild summer weather.
Does Phloem project strongly?+
Yes, Phloem projects well beyond arm's length during the first three hours. The diffusion of fruity notes and salty marine accords creates a noticeable cloud, so you should spray lightly in closed indoor spaces.
What season is best suited for wearing Phloem?+
It performs exceptionally well in the warm air of spring and summer. The salty shoreline feel and tart rhubarb pop beautifully in the heat, though the heavy styrax base can feel too thick in humid weather.
For what occasions should you wear Phloem?+
Wear Phloem for casual outdoor gatherings, seaside trips, or artistic evening events. Its polarizing, carnal nature makes it inappropriate for formal office settings, job interviews, or quiet medical environments where subtle scents are required.
Does Phloem lean masculine or feminine?+
This is a true unisex fragrance that defies traditional gender roles. It combines sweet passionfruit and honeysuckle with salty oysters and sweaty spices, appealing equally to any perfume enthusiast who appreciates bold, creative compositions.
Who is the target audience for Phloem?+
It is designed for fragrance connoisseurs and collectors who appreciate avant-garde perfumery. If you prefer simple clean musks or standard blue designer scents, Phloem will likely feel too strange and challenging.
Can Phloem be layered with other fragrances?+
You can layer Phloem with a simple linear woody scent or a clean ambrette musk to soften its wild character. Avoid layering it with other complex or heavy floral perfumes, as it already contains many conflicting notes.
Are there any obvious dupes for Phloem?+
There are no direct clones or cheap dupes for this fragrance. Its combination of oyster shell, rhubarb, and styrax is highly unique, though it shares a similarly daring, savory marine vibe with Secretions Magnifiques.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREThere are no close dupes, but it shares a savory, animalic marine vibe with Mugler Womanity and Etat Libre d'Orange Secretions Magnifiques.
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