S&X by Rankin
A collaboration between photographer Rankin and perfumer Azzi Glasser, S&X is a raw, unisex woody oriental. It blends spicy pepper, dry leather, and Earl Grey tea over a heavy base of castoreum and patchouli. It offers a dark, close-wearing alternative to sweet winter scents.
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Performance Metrics
47 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Longevity averages seven hours on warm skin. Sillage is moderate, projecting about two feet for the first couple of hours before fading into a warm, persistent skin scent best suited for cool autumn weather.
Notes Pyramid
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This unisex scent delivers a dry texture of leather, Earl Grey tea, and black pepper. Resinous olibanum and earthy patchouli provide a smoky, dark base, while white musk, jasmine, and magnolia keep the animalic castoreum from becoming harsh.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe woody and leather accords dominate the wear, feeling dry and smoldering on the skin. Earthy patchouli and spicy pepper add grit, while amber and animalic castoreum slowly warm up the late stages with a soft, musk-like heat.
Community Data
71 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in fall and winter. The vote picture leans most toward night.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Offers a unique blend of dry black tea and leather.
The animalic castoreum adds a warm skin-like depth.
Stays close to the body for intimate evening settings.
Created by renowned independent perfumer Azzi Glasser.
Perfect for cold autumn and winter night wear.
Unisex appeal that avoids sweet, generic floral paths.
Resinous olibanum base provides excellent longevity on skin.
Frees you from the common sugary designer trends.
Great pairing for dark leather jackets and wool coats.
Distinct artistic bottle design looks great on shelves.
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Polarizing animalic notes require sampling before buying.
The opening pepper can smell sharp and dry.
Intimate projection might disappoint fans of loud scents.
High price point for a small thirty milliliter bottle.
Too heavy and cloying for hot summer daytime wear.
The tea note fades quickly into the heavy base.
Hard to find in standard retail department stores.
Does not work well as a clean office signature.
The magnolia note is buried under the smoky woods.
Not suitable for those who prefer fresh, bright colognes.
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“S&X by Rankin Review: Smoldering Earl Grey Tea and Animalic Leather”
The opening of S&X by Rankin grabs you with a sharp, dry crackle of black pepper and resinous elemi. It feels textured and slightly medicinal from the start, avoiding any easy citrus brightness. Within minutes, a distinct Earl Grey tea accord emerges, bringing a tannic, dark tea leaf quality that keeps the opening spicy phase from feeling too dusty.
As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals its floral elements. Magnolia and jasmine lift the blend, but they do not make it pretty. Instead, they soften the hard edges of the dry leather that begins to smolder from the base. The leather here is realistic and slightly worn, lacking the clean, new car synthetic feel of many modern designer releases.
The real character of S&X shows in the deep dry-down on skin. The woody elements of guaiac wood and earthy patchouli merge with a warm, amber warmth. Here, the castoreum note adds a distinct animalic purr. It is not dirty enough to offend, but it provides a warm skin quality that makes the blend feel alive and tactile.
In terms of performance, S&X is a deliberate skin hugger. While it projects moderately for the first two hours, it quickly pulls close. This makes it an excellent choice for close encounters, date nights, or quiet evenings in late autumn. The warmth of the olibanum and wood feels comforting in cold, damp weather.
This is not a crowd-pleaser meant for the office or casual daytime wear. It fits an artistic, self-assured crowd that appreciates dark, woody, and slightly smoky compositions. If you dislike leather or animalic musk notes, this will not win you over, as they form the spine of the entire development.
Ultimately, Azzi Glasser has created a highly atmospheric, moody scent. S&X by Rankin stands out as a unique option for those tired of sweet gourmands. It demands a tester strip and a full day on your skin before committing to a bottle, but for the right wearer, its smoldering warmth is addictive.
FAQs
What does S&X by Rankin smell like?+
This scent opens with a sharp kick of black pepper before settling into a warm, smoky heart of leather and black Earl Grey tea. As it dries down, the resinous heat of olibanum and earthy patchouli dominates, leaving a dark, animalic musk trace that hugs the skin tightly.
How long does S&X by Rankin last on the skin?+
You can expect between six to eight hours of solid wear from this Eau de Parfum. The heavier notes like guaiac wood, amber, and castoreum cling well to the skin, keeping the darker, woody elements noticeable long after the brighter herbal opening fades away.
What is the sillage and projection of this fragrance?+
Projection is moderate, reaching about arm's length for the first two hours before settling into an intimate skin scent. The inclusion of white musk and jasmine keeps the heavy leather from becoming overwhelming, making it suitable for close conversation.
For which season and weather is S&X by Rankin best suited?+
This fragrance shines during late autumn and winter. The warm spices, smoky guaiac wood, and resinous elemi require cold temperatures to cut through their density, as summer heat can make the castoreum note feel overly heavy and cloying.
Is this a masculine or feminine fragrance?+
The brand markets this as unisex, and it leans right down the middle. Men will appreciate the dry leather, pepper, and guaiac wood, while women will find the magnolia, jasmin, and white musk base highly wearable and soft.
What is the best occasion to wear S&X by Rankin?+
It fits evening wear, gallery openings, and intimate dates. The smoky, dark profile of leather and tea pairs best with smart casual attire, dark clothing, and nighttime settings, rather than bright, formal daytime offices.
Who is the ideal audience for S&X by Rankin?+
This scent targets fragrance collectors and lovers of niche perfumery who appreciate animalic and resinous woody blends. It suits people who prefer personal, close-wearing musks over loud, room-filling gourmand or fresh fragrances.
Can I layer S&X by Rankin with other perfumes?+
Yes, it layers beautifully. Try combining it with a simple rose-centered perfume to soften the harsh edges of the pepper and castoreum, or pair it with a light citrus cologne to lift the heavy leather and amber base.
How does the tea note behave in this composition?+
The Earl Grey tea note provides a dry, bergamot-tinged tannic quality. It acts as a bridge between the bright opening pepper and the dark, smoky leather base, keeping the middle phase of the wear surprisingly crisp.
Does S&X by Rankin smell like a designer perfume?+
No, it smells highly niche and artistic. The blend of castoreum, olibanum, and guaiac wood lacks the sweet, clean synthetic profile found in mass-market designer releases, choosing instead a raw, smoky leather texture.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREWhile there is no direct copy, fans of dry tea and leather should look at Tea For Two by L'Artisan Parfumeur for a spicier take, or Bvlgari Black for a sweeter, rubbery vanilla leather option.
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