September 23
September 23 by Incarna parfums is a singular unisex composition that captures the somber, earthy scent of a frost-bitten autumn garden. By focusing on chrysanthemum, birch tar, and damp soil tincture, the perfumer crafts an experience that is bitter, herbal, and profoundly atmospheric for late-season wear.
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Performance Metrics
87 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Longevity reaches six to eight hours with moderate, intimate projection. It performs best in cool, damp, or rainy weather when the natural herbal notes can fully bloom on the skin.
Notes Pyramid
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A moody, photorealistic snapshot of autumn featuring bitter chrysanthemum, sharp wormwood, and grounding soil tincture. Its texture is raw, damp, and resinous, evoking the smell of a rain-soaked garden waiting for winter.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe aromatic and herbal opening transitions slowly into an earthy, woody base. The birch tar and guaiac wood create a resinous, smoky movement that softens the initial bitter bite as the scent sits on the skin.
Community Data
213 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in fall and winter. The vote picture leans most toward daytime.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Remarkably realistic depiction of autumn flora.
Beautifully moody and introspective scent character.
Excellent use of earthy and botanical notes.
Unique profile that stands out from mainstream releases.
Perfect longevity for a quiet, personal fragrance.
Artistic and intentional composition by the perfumer.
Great for rainy or cold weather layering.
Non-sweet, which is rare in this genre.
High-quality, evocative ingredients like soil tincture.
Sits close to the skin for intimate enjoyment.
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
The bitter chrysanthemum note is quite polarizing.
Lacks the broad appeal of modern designer perfumes.
The opening medicinal bite can be challenging.
Not suited for warm weather or high humidity.
Projection is too low for social settings.
Requires multiple wears to truly appreciate.
Harder to find compared to mainstream niche brands.
Soil notes may smell like literal dirt to some.
Does not offer a traditional sweet dry-down.
Can feel too melancholic for a bad mood.
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“September 23 Incarna Parfums: An Atmospheric Study of Autumn”
The opening of September 23 is unapologetically sharp, dropping you directly into a garden where marigold and bitter wormwood dominate the air. It does not bother with a polite introduction or sparkling citrus. Instead, you are greeted by the cold, green, and slightly medicinal bite of herbs that feel crushed under a gray, overcast sky. This is an immediate, sensory signal that you are entering a space focused on mood rather than mass appeal.
As the heart of the fragrance develops, the chrysanthemum takes center stage. It is not a sweet floral here. It is the smell of the actual plant, stems and all, fighting against the encroaching frost. The soil tincture becomes more prominent, adding a damp, realistic quality that feels like wet earth after a late-season rain. It is poignant and undeniably somber. You can almost feel the chill of the damp soil and the weight of the cooling air on your skin.
By the dry-down, the composition begins to settle into something warmer, though never truly sweet. Guaiac wood and birch tar provide a soft, resinous, and lightly smoky foundation that rounds out the initial sharpness. It is a slow, steady progression that mirrors the way a garden closes down for the season. The balsamic notes lend a subtle depth that keeps the scent from feeling too thin, grounding the earlier, more ethereal floral components in a comfortable base.
Regarding performance, September 23 provides a moderate to long-lasting wear, generally clinging to the skin for about six to eight hours. It does not project like a beast. It stays within an arm's length, which feels appropriate for such a quiet and introspective composition. It performs best in cooler, damp weather, as the humidity seems to unlock the complexity of the soil and green notes.
This is a fragrance for the enthusiast who values artistic integrity over compliments. It fits those who want a scent to match their own mood on a reflective afternoon, not those looking for a daily office driver. It is intellectual, moody, and intentionally challenging. It avoids the tired traps of modern sweetness, choosing instead to focus on a singular, honest interpretation of the natural world.
In the final assessment, September 23 is a success for what it aims to do. It captures a specific time and place with remarkable accuracy. It may be too bitter for some, but for those who find peace in the quiet decay of autumn, it is a rewarding experience that feels personal and profound.
FAQs
What is the primary scent profile of September 23?+
It centers on cold, bitter chrysanthemum and green wormwood notes, resting on an earthy foundation of soil tincture and moss. It smells like crushed petals in a rainy, late-autumn garden rather than a sweet, blooming floral arrangement.
How does the opening differ from the dry-down?+
The opening is sharp, green, and herbal, dominated by the bitter bite of wormwood and marigold. As it reaches the dry-down, it loses its initial intensity, revealing warmer balsamic notes and guaiac wood, which ground the scent in a soft, resinous comfort.
Is this fragrance suitable for office wear?+
Because of its moody, herbal, and earthy character, it may be too unconventional for a formal, scent-neutral office. It is better suited for solitary walks in the woods or quiet, reflective autumn weekends spent indoors.
Does September 23 last long on the skin?+
Users generally report moderate to long-lasting performance. On most skin types, it lingers for six to eight hours, though its projection remains intimate and never becomes overpowering or room-filling.
Is this a good blind buy for a beginner?+
No, this is a highly specific, artistic creation. Its intense focus on soil tincture and bitter chrysanthemum makes it polarizing for those accustomed to mainstream designer scents. You should definitely sample it before committing to a full bottle.
Which season does this fragrance suit best?+
It is tailor-made for fall. Its atmosphere of dying flowers, wet leaves, and cold air resonates perfectly with rainy October weather or the arrival of the first frost, providing a grounding scent experience.
Does it have a strong sillage?+
The sillage is moderate and personal. It creates a subtle aura around the wearer, which is fitting for a fragrance that prioritizes internal atmosphere over external projection. It stays close to the skin after the first hour.
Is it a unisex fragrance?+
Yes, it is squarely unisex. Its earthy, woody, and herbal profile avoids the common sweet or powdery tropes associated with gendered marketing, making it equally wearable by anyone attracted to natural, raw botanical scents.
Can I layer this with other perfumes?+
Layering is tricky due to the strong presence of birch tar and soil tincture. It may overpower lighter scents, though you could try pairing it with a simple vanilla or sandalwood base if you want to add warmth to its inherent bitterness.
What is the best way to sample this scent?+
Since it is a niche, artistic perfume from Incarna parfums, look for a small decant or official sample set. Test it on your skin on a cool, damp day to truly understand how the chrysanthemum and soil notes behave.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREThere are few direct dupes for this specific, photorealistic chrysanthemum and soil blend. If you enjoy this, look toward darker, earthier niche works from brands like Zoologist or Naomi Goodsir for similar moods.
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