Study No. 23 / Newsletter
For niche perfume enthusiasts seeking an alternative to heavy amber scents, Study No. 23 / Newsletter offers a quiet, intellectual retreat. This unisex perfume is designed for cool seasons, performing best during crisp autumn mornings and freezing winter nights. It pairs perfectly with structured coats and quiet workspaces. By focusing on dry myrrh, clean aldehydes, and herbal immortelle, it avoids the typical sugary paths of modern perfumery. If you want a fragrance that feels like reading a classic book in a stone library, this scent is a fantastic candidate for your collection. Test it on skin to watch the cold resins melt into a comforting, cedar-infused warmth.
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Performance Metrics
687 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
It lasts for seven hours on skin with moderate, arm's length sillage. The projection stays quiet after the second hour, making it ideal for cool, indoor environments.
Notes Pyramid
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A dry, woody incense fragrance that opens with cold aldehydes and bitter fennel before warming into a heart of dry immortelle and cedar, finishing with a base of myrrh, sandalwood, and patchouli.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe amber and warm spicy accords behave like dry, glowing coals on the skin. The balsamic myrrh and smoky incense create a clean, meditative warmth without any syrupy sweetness.
Community Data
450 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in winter and spring.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Features a beautiful contrast between cold aldehydes and warm myrrh
Immortelle note remains dry and herbal instead of cloyingly sweet
Polite moderate sillage makes it highly suitable for office wear
Excellent seven hour longevity on skin and longer on fabrics
Clean, minimalist bottle design looks elegant on any vanity
Ideal for damp, overcast autumn days and cold winter nights
Himalayan cedar base provides a realistic, dry wood finish
Unisex balance avoids typical sugary sweet or harsh leather tropes
Fennel note adds a unique, slightly medicinal herbal sparkle
Feels like an artistic, high-quality niche creation throughout the wear
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Cold, soapy aldehyde opening can feel harsh in the first minutes
Immortelle can develop a slight maple sweetness on very hot skin
Fennel note might smell too medicinal for people who dislike anise
Does not project enough for those who want a loud trail
Hard to purchase or test in physical department stores
Scent profile feels too dry and heavy for hot humid summers
Lack of sweet vanilla notes may alienate fans of modern gourmands
Stays very close to the skin after the second hour of wear
Can smell dusty, like old paper, on dry skin types
Not suited for casual athletic wear or bright beach outings
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Miller et Bertaux Study No. 23 Review: Meditative Incense”
The opening of Study No. 23 / Newsletter is cold and bracing. The first spray delivers a blast of soapy aldehydes and green, slightly bitter fennel. It feels like stepping out of a warm house into a frosty autumn morning. There is a metallic, clean quality to the air that feels sharp but refreshing. This initial chill lasts for about fifteen minutes, keeping the composition light and clean before the heavier resins begin to rise.
As the fragrance settles, the heart reveals its true character. The cold air softens as immortelle and myrrh take over. The immortelle here is dry and herbal, avoiding the sticky, maple-syrup thickness that the note sometimes develops in warmer blends. Instead, it feels like dried wildflowers kept inside a cedar chest. The myrrh adds a dusty, balsamic warmth that bridges the gap between the clean opening and the woody base.
On skin, the transition from cold to warm is fascinating. The patchouli and Himalayan cedar provide a solid, dry wood foundation that prevents the scent from becoming sweet or muddy. The sandalwood stays in the background, offering a smooth texture rather than a creamy wood note. It feels like natural materials warming up under your shirt, reacting to your body chemistry without synthetic harshness.
This perfume performs best in cool, crisp weather. It is a fantastic companion for rainy spring mornings or freezing winter days when you wear heavy wool coats. The projection is polite, keeping the dry incense close to your body. You will not offend anyone in an office setting or a quiet library, yet you will catch regular comforting whiffs of cedar and resin as you move.
This is not a perfume for people who want to stand out in a loud club or command a crowded room. It suits quiet, thoughtful individuals who wear fragrance for their own pleasure. The lack of traditional floral sweetness or heavy amber syrup makes it an easy daily signature for lovers of dry, minimalist aesthetics. It fits casual but high-quality outfits, like a grey wool sweater and leather boots.
Our verdict is to try a sample first. While the quality of the resins is clear, the combination of aldehydes and dry immortelle can feel too stark for those accustomed to sweet designer scents. If you already love CDG incense perfumes or dry woody scents, this will be a welcome, slightly brighter addition to your shelf.
FAQs
What does Study No. 23 / Newsletter smell like?+
This fragrance smells like cold church incense heating up on warm skin. It opens with bright, metallic aldehydes and bitter fennel, then shifts into a dry, herbal heart dominated by immortelle. The base is warm, woody, and dusty, featuring cedar, patchouli, and myrrh.
Does Study No. 23 / Newsletter have good longevity?+
Yes, it lasts between six and eight hours on skin. The incense and cedar notes linger longest, clinging to collars and sweaters. It survives a full workday in cool autumn weather without needing a midday refresh.
How far does the scent project?+
The sillage is moderate, projecting about arm's length for the first two hours. It then settles into a personal scent bubble that people will only notice when they hug you. This makes it safe for office wear.
Is this a good fragrance for winter?+
It excels in winter and damp spring days. The cool air sharpens the aldehydes, while your body heat coaxes out the warm, resinous depth of myrrh and sandalwood. It feels too heavy and dry for hot summer afternoons.
Is Study No. 23 / Newsletter masculine or feminine?+
It is completely unisex. It lacks the sugary sweetness found in modern feminine perfumes and avoids the sharp lavender of typical masculine colognes. Anyone who appreciates dry woods and smoky resins can wear this comfortably.
What is the difference between the opening and the dry-down?+
The opening is cold, soapy, and slightly medicinal due to aldehydes and fennel. The dry-down is much warmer and earthier. As the herbal sharpness fades, you are left with a cozy mix of myrrh, sandalwood, and sweet immortelle.
Can I wear this fragrance to the office?+
Yes, it works well in professional settings. The clean aldehydes and dry cedar keep it smelling polished and clean. Since it does not project aggressively, it will not overpower your colleagues in small meeting rooms.
What kind of outfit pairs best with this scent?+
It pairs beautifully with textured, minimalist clothing. Think of a charcoal grey cashmere sweater, a structured black trench coat, or clean linen shirts. The scent profile matches a thoughtful, understated personal style.
Does it smell similar to other incense perfumes?+
It shares similarities with classic dry incense scents but stands out because of the immortelle. The maple-like, dry herbal quality of immortelle adds a unique texture that separates it from standard smoky, linear wood fragrances.
Is this a safe blind buy?+
No, you should sample this first. The combination of metallic aldehydes, bitter fennel, and syrupy-dry immortelle can be polarizing. Skin chemistry heavily influences how sweet or dry the immortelle smells on you.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREIt sits in the same family as Comme des Garcons Kyoto and Serge Lutens L'Eau Froide, offering a similar dry, clean incense feel but with a more herbal, immortelle-driven warmth in the dry-down.
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