The Black
Designed for wearers who prefer dark, understated aesthetics, The Black by The Sum delivers an unconventional mineral oud experience. Perfumer Josh Meyer blends agarwood with cold black stone and fresh spicy accords, avoiding the sweet vanilla traps of modern niche perfumery. The fragrance fits perfectly alongside leather jackets, dark winter outerwear, and quiet evening city walks. Its compact 30 ml bottle houses a genuine sterling silver bead, grounding the scent's industrial mood. Expect a clean six to eight hour wear that projects quietly without dominating the room. It offers an intriguing choice for fragrance connoisseurs looking to step away from traditional warm amber scents.
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Performance Metrics
60 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
Longevity averages six to eight hours on skin, while sillage stays within a moderate arm's length radius for the first two hours before settling into an intimate mineral woody veil best suited for chilly climates.
Notes Pyramid
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The Black presents a cold mineral scent profile built on agarwood, black stone accords, and sharp metallic top notes. Its texture feels flinty, dry, and dark, entirely devoid of sweet amber or floral elements.
Main Accords
4 MAPPEDThe metallic top accord strikes fast before giving way to a prominent mineral black stone note. Over four hours, these cool accords rest atop a dry agarwood base that warms slightly on skin without losing its stony edge.
Community Data
75 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in fall and winter. The vote picture leans most toward night.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Unique black stone and mineral note profile
Clean dry agarwood base without animalic funk
Exemplary fit for cold rain and winter weather
Completely unisex scent structure
Moderate arm's length sillage won't offend in offices
Clings exceptionally well to wool and leather fabrics
Stark minimalist bottle featuring a sterling silver bead
Crafted by recognized indie perfumer Josh Meyer
Great base fragrance for layering under sweet scents
Avoids heavy cloying amber or vanilla sweetness
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
Cold metallic opening may feel harsh to beginners
Lacks warm cozy notes for freezing winter nights
Moderate six hour longevity requires reapplication for long days
Only available in a small 30 ml bottle size
Not a mass-appeal crowd pleaser for blind buying
Mineral stone accord can smell clinical on some skins
Limited availability outside specialized indie retailers
Minimal projection after the two hour mark
Absence of sweetness may feel too austere for some
Higher cost per milliliter than mainstream designer scents
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“The Sum The Black Review: Mineral Oud for Minimalists”
Josh Meyer opened a fresh lane in minimalist perfumery when he released The Black under his Portland brand The Sum in 2016. Instead of overloading the formula with sweet amber resins or heavy gourmand notes, the scent launches with a distinct snap of cold metallic accords. It feels like touching cold iron on a crisp autumn morning. This sharp opening sets a dark, focused tone that immediately separates it from standard designer fragrances found at mall counters.
After thirty minutes on skin, the mineral black stone accord takes center stage and defines the fragrance's character. It smells remarkably like wet granite after autumn rain, balanced by a subtle fresh spicy lift that keeps the composition alive. The heart avoids warm culinary spices like cinnamon or cardamom. Instead, it maintains an icy composure that feels crisp, flinty, and modern rather than soft or cozy.
The dry-down reveals the agarwood base, though it remains surprisingly sheer throughout the entire life of the fragrance. This oud lacks any medicinal sharpness or animalic barnyard funk, offering instead a dry woody anchor that lets the black stone accord shine. On warm skin, the transition from metallic top notes to smoky agarwood feels fluid, controlled, and quiet. The woodiness settles gently into fabrics, preserving its clean mineral identity into the late evening hours.
In terms of practical performance, The Black shines brightest during cold damp weather. You get roughly six to eight hours of total longevity from four sprays, with the sillage staying neatly within an arm's length radius for the first two hours. It clings exceptionally well to wool coats, heavy scarves, and dark denim, making it a dependable option for late October walks through rain-slicked city streets.
The target audience for this creation is intentional and refined. Architects, industrial designers, and niche perfume enthusiasts who favor monochrome wardrobes will appreciate its stark restraint. My main critique is that the scent can feel somewhat clinical on bitterly cold winter nights when you instinctively seek cozy vanilla warmth rather than cold slate. It demands a specific mood, weather condition, and outfit to pull off with complete confidence.
Ultimately, The Black stands out as a compelling choice for anyone tired of sugary gourmands and generic woody amber accords. It offers a serious, intellectual scent profile that rewards patient wearers who value atmosphere over loud projection. Always order a sample first to verify how the cold mineral stone accords interact with your personal skin chemistry before purchasing a full bottle.
FAQs
What does The Black by The Sum smell like?+
The Black opens with a sharp metallic snap and cold black stone accords before settling into dry agarwood. It smells like damp granite, cool iron, and clean oud smoke without any added sugar or floral undertones. The overall vibe is austere, mineral, and quietly brooding.
How does the opening of The Black compare to its dry-down?+
The opening blasts a crisp mineral air with a distinct metallic bite that feels almost icy. Over two hours, that cold edge settles into a smoother, dry agarwood woodiness. The agarwood stays calm on skin for the remaining six hours of wear without turning sweet.
How long does The Black last on skin?+
You get roughly six to eight hours of noticeable wear from four sprays. The metallic top notes fade within ninety minutes, while the mineral agarwood base lingers quietly on skin and fabric until evening. On wool coats, the scent can last past twelve hours.
What is the projection and sillage like for The Black?+
Sillage remains moderate throughout its life. It projects about arm's length for the first hour before drawing inward to create an intimate personal bubble. It will not overpower small office spaces, car interiors, or intimate dinner tables during chilly evening outings.
Which season is best suited for wearing The Black?+
The cold mineral stone and smoky agarwood notes perform best during autumn and winter. Crisp November air enhances the flinty metallic accords. High summer heat can make the mineral undertones feel overly harsh and synthetic on sweating skin.
What occasions fit The Black by The Sum?+
This scent excels in evening settings, art gallery openings, architectural studios, and minimalist social gatherings. Its austere profile matches tailored black outerwear, leather jackets, dark denim, and rain-slicked urban environments where a quiet, intellectual scent makes a subtle statement.
Is The Black leaning masculine or feminine?+
The Black is completely unisex. It lacks traditional feminine florals and sweet masculine barbershop notes, offering instead an industrial stone and oud palette. Anyone who enjoys dark, wood-forward fragrances will find this easy to wear regardless of gender.
Who is the ideal audience for this fragrance?+
It targets niche perfume enthusiasts, design professionals, and readers of fragrance forums who appreciate unconventional compositions. If you enjoy scents like Comme des Garçons Black Pepper or wet stone accords, this mineral agarwood fragrance will fit your aesthetic perfectly.
Can you layer The Black with other perfumes?+
Yes, its dry mineral structure makes it an excellent base layer. Try pairing it under a rich vanilla or amber fragrance to add a cold metallic counterweight. This grounding effect keeps overly sweet gourmand notes from feeling cloying during daytime wear.
How does The Black compare to other dark oud scents?+
Unlike rich Arabian oud scents loaded with rose, saffron, and heavy resins, The Black focuses on a stripped-back mineral texture. It relies on black stone notes to keep the agarwood light, dry, crisp, and distinctly modern throughout its wear.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREConsider Comme des Garçons Black Pepper for a warmer woody spice, or Beaufort London Terror & Magnificence if you want a much heavier wet stone smoke experience.
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