Ultima II

“Charles Revson Ultima II Review: The Definitive Green Aromatic Classic”

The first spray delivers an immediate jolt. Alcohol flashes off quickly, leaving behind a bitter, brisk crack of bergamot and crushed violet leaf. You also get a noticeable flash of mandarin peel, though it contains zero candy sweetness. Clary sage joins in almost instantly with a dusty, savory edge that clears your sinuses. Some modern noses might find the initial two minutes slightly astringent or medicinal. Give it a moment. Once the top notes settle on the skin, that sharpness transforms into the clean, invigorating snap of freshly cut flower stems.

Thirty minutes in, the profile softens into its floral heart. Do not expect a creamy tropical bouquet here. The jasmine is cool, dry, and slightly soapy, kept firmly in check by a generous handful of green bay laurels. This herbal laurel accord is fascinating. It adds a peppery, sun-warmed leaf texture that prevents the white florals from ever turning sweet. As the hours progress, the drydown reveals a quiet base of cedar-like woody notes and lean, earthy patchouli. It never becomes thick or syrupy. Instead, it clings to the skin like expensive herbal soap.

Skin chemistry plays a massive role here. On dry skin, the bitter bergamot and ozonic violet leaf can linger for nearly an hour, projecting a crisp, cool air. On warmer skin, the woody base and dark patchouli emerge much faster, trading morning briskness for a slightly smoky, forest floor warmth. The woody aromatic facets remain exceptionally clean throughout the entire evaporation cycle. There is a tangible tactile friction to this fragrance. It feels dry and starch-collared, devoid of any modern chemical ambroxan sludge or sticky ethyl maltol.

Performance is reliable for a vintage eau de cologne concentration. You get roughly six hours of solid wear on moisturized skin, while a wool blazer or cotton blouse will hold the patchouli for well over twenty-four hours. Three sprays are plenty for the office. Sillage is moderate, creating a polite two-foot radius that lets people know you take hygiene seriously without choking out an elevator. It performs best in mild spring and crisp autumn temperatures between 14°C and 20°C. In humid summer swelter, the herbal bitterness can turn slightly sharp, so ease up on the trigger.

Who is this bottle for? If your daily rotation consists of vanilla gourmands or fruity florals, Ultima II will feel like a bucket of cold pond water. It is uncompromisingly herbal and green. Collectors who love vintage icons like Chanel No. 19 or Clinique Aromatics Elixir will immediately feel at home. It projects competence and quiet authority. While originally marketed to women in 1967, its dry laurel and patchouli architecture smells completely unisex by current standards, suiting anyone who wants a clean, intelligent daytime signature.

Ultima II remains a fascinating piece of late-sixties perfumery. It captures a moment when women's fragrances rejected heavy boudoir musks in favor of outdoor freshness, sharp tailoring, and herbal autonomy. If you find a well-preserved bottle on an estate sale or auction site, snap it up. Just do not expect modern sugar. It is dry, crisp, and unapologetically botanical.