Under the Stars
Under the Stars by Maison Martin Margiela offers a raw, woody experience centered on dark leather and oud. Launched in 2023, this unisex scent captures the stark, smoky essence of a night campfire. It is a bold, long-lasting choice for those seeking a rugged, non-sweet fragrance profile for cold winter days and crisp, chilly evenings.
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Performance Metrics
5,214 VOTESOpen Performance Breakdown 1 TAKE
It is surprisingly persistent for an eau de toilette, lasting 8 to 10 hours on most skin types. Projection is moderate, consistently staying within arm's length. It performs at its best in cold, dry climates, where the woody and smoky notes have room to breathe without becoming cloying.
Notes Pyramid
Search these notesChoose where each note belongs.
Under the Stars centers on a dry, resinous texture of black pepper, rugged leather, and medicinal oud. It is smoky, earthy, and strictly avoids sugar, resulting in a dark, woody profile that feels like standing next to a crackling campfire on a freezing winter night.
Main Accords
10 MAPPEDThe leather and oud accords dominate from start to finish. The leather feels waxy and thick, while the oud is dry and woody. They work in tandem to create a steady, linear experience that feels solid and deliberate, with the black pepper and labdanum providing subtle spice and resinous depth.
Community Data
2,299 TOTAL VOTESCOMMUNITY SENTIMENT
OWNERSHIP STATS
GENDER APPEAL
REVIEW SENTIMENT
When to Wear
TAP TO VOTETIME OF DAY · TAP TO VOTE
OCCASIONS · TAP TO VOTE
It looks easiest to wear in winter and spring.
Pros & Cons
Quick take before you sampleWHY PEOPLE MAY LIKE IT
Unique, bold profile that avoids typical sweetness
Excellent longevity, often lasting over 8 hours
Captures a very authentic smoky campfire scent
Great for late autumn and winter weather
Feels like a niche fragrance in a designer bottle
Moderate projection is polite for public wear
Layers well with vanilla for added softness
Dries down into a comforting, steady wood scent
Strong value for the level of performance provided
Ideal for outdoor settings and evening gatherings
WHAT TO WATCH OUT FOR
The opening pepper and leather can be harsh
Not a crowd-pleasing, sweet scent profile
Can feel cloying in warm or humid weather
Medicinal oud note is very polarizing for some
Not suitable for a professional office setting
Linear development may bore some scent enthusiasts
Blind buying is risky and not advised
Very difficult to wash off of skin or clothing
Some users perceive it as having a burnt plastic odor
Lacks the versatility needed for a signature scent
Fragranxe Review
EDITORIAL“Under the Stars: A Raw, Smoky Journey into the Woods”
Under the Stars opens with an immediate, sharp strike of black pepper. It is not a polite or subtle introduction, but rather a dry, spicy punch that sets the stage for the rest of the fragrance. You can smell the intent instantly, as it signals a move away from the sugary trends prevalent in current designer releases. It does not linger in the air as a sweet cloud, but rather bites at the senses, demanding attention right from the first spray.
As the pepper fades, the heart reveals a deep, singular focus on leather. This is not the clean, polished suede often found in luxury scents, but something darker and more rugged. The oud begins to emerge alongside it, providing a medicinal, woody backbone that feels grounded and earthy. The labdanum creeps in later, giving a resinous, slightly sticky sweetness that keeps the scent from feeling completely sterile, though it never tips into gourmand territory.
On the skin, the accords move in a predictable but satisfying rhythm. The leather provides a waxy, thick texture that stays close to the skin, while the oud projects a dry, smoky quality that mimics the smell of a dying campfire. It behaves like a solid, unchanging block of wood and oil. There is little movement in terms of light or airy notes, but there is a steady, reassuring presence that feels intentional in its linear nature.
Performance is perhaps the most impressive aspect of this scent. For an eau de toilette, it possesses significant tenacity, lasting easily through 8 to 10 hours of wear. It projects at a moderate, arm's length distance, creating a personal cloud that feels intimate yet bold. It is perfectly suited for cold, crisp weather when you want a fragrance that can stand up against the biting air, rather than one that vanishes the moment you walk outside.
This is a fragrance for a specific type of wearer. If you enjoy the atmosphere of a cold night and want a scent that reflects that, it is an excellent fit. It does not try to be a mass-market compliment-getter. Instead, it feels geared toward those who prefer a scent that is dry, slightly challenging, and evocative of nature. It suits an audience that appreciates the artistry of woods and resins over the appeal of fruit or sugar.
My verdict is to sample this one first. The blend of oud and leather is quite polarizing, and some wearers find the smoky profile too reminiscent of burning materials. It is a bold, niche-style release, and it will not please everyone. If you find the right occasion, however, it provides a unique and memorable sensory experience that is hard to find in other designer lines.
FAQs
What does Under the Stars smell like?+
It is a dry, smoky composition dominated by leather and oud. The opening features a sharp hit of black pepper, which quickly settles into a campfire-like atmosphere of wood and resin. It lacks the sweetness found in other fragrances and focuses on a stark, earthy, and animalic profile that feels rugged.
Does this scent change much on the skin?+
The opening is punchy with black pepper. Within an hour, this transitions into a steady, linear core of leathery oud that stays consistent for the duration of the wear. It does not evolve into something entirely new, but rather slowly fades, keeping its campfire woodiness present until the very end of the day.
How long does it last?+
It is quite tenacious for an eau de toilette. Most users report solid longevity in the 8 to 10 hour range. It sticks well to clothing and skin, making it a reliable choice if you need a fragrance to last through a long evening event or a full work day during the winter.
Is the projection strong?+
The projection is moderate, usually sitting within an arm's length. It creates a noticeable scent bubble that announces your presence without filling an entire room. This makes it suitable for semi-formal settings where you want to be smelled, but do not want to overwhelm the people sitting directly next to you.
Which season is best for this?+
Late autumn and winter are the ideal times to wear this. The dry, woody, and smoky character harmonizes perfectly with cold, crisp air. In high heat or summer, the intense leather and oud accords can become suffocating and heavy, losing the intended atmospheric beauty that makes it stand out in colder weather.
What occasions suit this fragrance?+
It fits best with casual, outdoor-oriented, or evening settings. Because it feels like a bonfire, it is perfect for late-night gatherings, winter walks, or nights by the fire. It is less suited for a professional office environment due to the dominant, challenging nature of the oud and animalic leather notes.
Does it lean masculine or feminine?+
While marketed as unisex, it leans decidedly masculine to most wearers. The combination of black pepper, leather, and oud creates a rugged, sharp profile that aligns with traditional masculine scent structures. Those who prefer more feminine, floral, or sweet scents may find this challenging or overly abrasive upon first application.
Who should buy this?+
Fans of niche, woody, and animalic perfumes who enjoy the smell of smoke and raw leather will likely appreciate this. It is for those who are tired of sweet or generic designer scents and want something bolder. If you dislike oud or medicinal smells, this is definitely one to avoid.
Can I layer it with other scents?+
Yes, its linear, woody base makes it a strong candidate for layering. It works well when combined with a touch of vanilla or amber to soften the edges of the oud. Applying a sweeter perfume over it can create a nice balance, adding depth to a lighter, simpler scent profile.
Is this a safe blind buy?+
It is a risky blind buy. The scent is polarizing, with the leather and oud coming across as harsh or medicinal to some people. Because it lacks typical crowd-pleasing sweetness, testing a sample on your own skin is essential before committing to a full bottle to ensure you enjoy the dry down.
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Dupes & Alternatives
COMMUNITY DUPESCOREIf you enjoy this profile, look into Amouage Interlude Man for something deeper, or Swiss Arabian Oud Abyad for a much more affordable, similar woody leather experience.
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